Как пишется бренд баленсиага на английском

Balenciaga SA ( bə-LEN-see-AH-gə^[1]) is a Spanish luxury fashion house founded in 1919 by the designer Cristóbal Balenciaga in San Sebastian, Spain and based in Paris, France. Balenciaga produces ready-to-wear, footwear, handbags, and accessories and licenses its name and branding to Coty for fragrances.^[2] The brand is currently owned by the French corporation Kering.

Balenciaga SA

Type	Subsidiary (société anonyme)
Industry	Fashion
Predecessor	Balenciaga y Compañía EISA, S.A.
Founded	1919; 104 years ago in San Sebastián, Spain
Founder	Cristóbal Balenciaga
Headquarters	Paris , France
Area served	Worldwide
Key people	Cédric Charbit (chief executive officer) Demna Gvasalia (creative director) Martina Tiefenthaler (chief creative officer) Ludivine Pont (chief marketing officer)
Number of employees	1,325 (2019)
Parent	Kering
Website	balenciaga.com

HistoryEdit

Balenciaga dresses on display in Florence, Italy

Founding to 1980Edit

Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1919, and expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona.^[3] The Spanish royal family and the aristocracy wore his designs. When the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his stores, Balenciaga moved to Paris.^[3][4]

Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, where his first fashion show featured designs heavily influenced by the Spanish Renaissance.^[3] Balenciaga’s success was nearly immediate. In the period of two years, the press lauded him as a revolutionary, and his designs were highly sought-after.^[3] Carmel Snow, the editor of Harper’s Bazaar, was an early champion of his designs.^[5]

Customers risked their safety to travel to Europe during World War II to see Balenciaga’s clothing.^[3] During this period, he was noted for his «square coat», with sleeves cut in a single piece with the yoke, and for his designs with black (or black and brown) lace over bright pink fabric.^[3] Historians believe that Balenciaga’s continued activity during the Nazi occupation of Paris was made possible by Balenciaga’s connections with Spanish dictator General Francisco Franco who was Adolf Hitler’s close ally.^[6] The relation to Franco was so close in fact, the Balenciaga designed clothing for the Franco family. ^[7] The company was one of only 60 companies allowed to operate during the occupation, and the ongoing supply of raw materials from Spain, which were in short supply in Paris at the time due to the war, gave Balenciaga a competitive advantage. However, Balenciaga testified that he refused Hitler’s request to transfer his company’s activities to Berlin.^[8][9]

During the post-war years, his lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by «Christian Dior’s New Look».^[3] The fluidity of his silhouettes enabled him to manipulate the relationship between his clothing and women’s bodies. In 1951, he transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1958.^[3] Other contributions in the postwar era included the spherical balloon jacket (1953), the high-waisted baby doll dress (1957), the cocoon coat (1957), the balloon skirt (1957), and the sack dress (1957). In 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like kimono. His manipulation of the waist, in particular, contributed to «what is considered to be his most important contribution to the world of fashion: a new silhouette for women.»^[3]

In the 1960s, Balenciaga tended toward heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery, and bold materials.^[3] His trademarks included «collars that stood away from the collarbone to give a swanlike appearance» and shortened «bracelet» sleeves.^[3] His often spare, sculptural creations—including funnel-shape gowns of stiff duchess satin worn to acclaim by clients such as Pauline de Rothschild, Bunny Mellon, Marella Agnelli, Hope Portocarrero, Gloria Guinness, and Mona von Bismarck—were considered masterworks of haute couture in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1960, he designed the wedding dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar and the hips. Jackie Kennedy famously upset her husband by buying Balenciaga’s expensive creations while John F. Kennedy was president, he apparently feared that the American public might think the purchases too lavish. Her haute couture bills were eventually discreetly paid by her father-in-law, Joseph Kennedy.^[10]

ProtégésEdit

Several designers who worked for Balenciaga would go on to open their own successful couture houses, notably Oscar de la Renta (1949), Andre Courreges (1950), Emanuel Ungaro (1958), but his most famous and noted protégé was Hubert de Givenchy, who was the lone designer to side with Balenciaga against the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne and also the press over the scheduling of his shows.^{[citation needed]}

Battle against the pressEdit

In 1957, Balenciaga famously decided to show his collection to the fashion press the day before the clothing retail delivery date, not the standard four weeks before the retail delivery date the fashion industry followed at the time. By keeping the press unaware of the design of his garments until the day before they were shipped to stores, he hoped to curtail ongoing piracy and copying of his designs. The press resisted, finding it nearly impossible to get his work into their print deadlines, but Balenciaga and protégé Givenchy stood firm, seriously impacting their coverage and press of the era. His supporters would argue that rival Christian Dior would gain acclaim from copying Balenciaga’s silhouettes and cuts, claiming them as his own original work; because Balenciaga was not interested in press coverage, the media, and consumers never knew.

In 1967, both designers reversed their decision and joined the traditional schedule.

Battle against the ChambreEdit

Balenciaga defiantly resisted the rules, guidelines, and bourgeoisie status of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture parisienne, and, thus, was never a member. Although he is spoken of with immense reverence, technically, Balenciaga couture was never haute couture.^{[citation needed]}

Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his fashion house in 1968 and died in 1972. The house lay dormant until 1986.^[3]

1981 to 2010Edit

Balenciaga is now owned by Kering and its womenswear and menswear was headed by Nicolas Ghesquière.^[11]

In 2002, Balenciaga’s star, Nicolas Ghesquière, imitated the work of Kaisik Wong, a designer from San Francisco. Ghesquiere created a patchwork vest in his spring collection that resembled one that Wong designed in 1973. Ghesquière admitted in an interview in Paris that he had copied the garment.^[12]

Ghesquière’s F/W 2005 line showed that the house was not only making money, but also attracted a number of celebrity customers including editor-in-chief at Vogue, Anna Wintour.^{[citation needed]}

The House of Balenciaga designed the dresses worn by Jennifer Connelly and Nicole Kidman to the 2006 Academy Awards, as well as the wedding gown Kidman wore when she married Keith Urban.^[13] Kylie Minogue also wore a Balenciaga dress for her «Slow» and «Red Blooded Woman» music videos and for her concert tour.^[14]

Balenciaga’s Fall/Winter 2007 show impressed Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Amy Astley so much that an entire spread in the magazine, titled «Global Studies» and shot in Beijing, was influenced by it. The line included skinny jodhpurs, tight, fitted blazers, beaded embellished scarves, and other multicultural mixes.^{[citation needed]}

Balenciaga is known for creating avant-garde, advanced structural pieces, straddling the edge of fashion and forecasting the future of women’s ready-to-wear fashion. Vintage Balenciaga garments are popular among fashion editors, Hollywood stars, and models, and have been seen on Sienna Miller,^[15] Lara Bingle, Raquel Zimmerman,^[16] Caroline Trentini, Emmanuelle Alt,^[17] Tatiana Sorokko,^[18] Hilary Rhoda, Jennifer Garner, and Stephanie Seymour, among others.^[19] Balenciaga is also frequently worn by actress Chloë Sevigny, who is also a muse of Nicolas Ghesquière.

2010 to presentEdit

In March 2011 at San Francisco’s M. H. de Young Museum, Balenciaga celebrated the opening of Balenciaga and Spain, a 120-piece fashion retrospective of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s career. The exhibition included many designs from the museum’s encyclopedic costume collection. «You can’t even measure it», said Rodarte designer Laura Mulleavy of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s influence.^[20] The $2,500-a-ticket fund-raiser for the museum drew 350 guests, including Denise Hale, Marissa Mayer, Vanessa Getty, Victoria Traina, Vanessa Traina, Jamie Tisch, Gwyneth Paltrow, Orlando Bloom, Balthazar Getty, Maggie Rizer, Connie Nielsen, Maria Bello, and Mia Wasikowska.^[20]

In June 2011, the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum opened in Getaria, Spain.^[21]

In November 2012, Balenciaga announced that it was parting with creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, ending his 15-year tenure.^[22][23] The brand announced Alexander Wang as its new creative director.^[23][24] Wang presented his first collection for the label on February 28, 2013, at Paris Fashion Week. In 2014, the Tribunal de grande instance de Paris set a trial date for the lawsuit between Balenciaga vs. Ghesquière.^[25] Balenciaga claimed that Ghesquière’s comments in the magazine System had hurt the company’s image.^[26] The highly publicized suit was mediated out of court.

In July 2015, Balenciaga announced it was parting with creative director Alexander Wang after three years. The Spring/Summer 2016 show was his last, featuring white lounge wear made from soft, natural fabrics.^[27] In early October 2015, the brand appointed Demna Gvasalia as its new creative director.^[28]

In, April 2021 Gvasalia presented his new Pre-Fall 2021 collection, as promoted by Vanity Teen magazine.^[29] In August 2021, Justin Bieber was announced as the new face of Balenciaga.^[30] In September 2021, the brand faced backlash when it released trompe-l’œil sweatpants with the illusion of plaid boxers sticking out the top with a price tag of $1,190.^[31]
In May 2022, Balenciaga announced that it accepts crypto payments.^[32][33]

In October 2022 Balenciaga announced that it was severing its ties to Kanye West due to his anti-semitic comments.^[34]

Support for UkraineEdit

In March 2022 during Paris Fashion Week, Balenciaga expressed support for Ukraine during the Russian-Ukrainian War. T-shirts in yellow and blue (like the Ukrainian flag) were placed on the chairs. Creative director Demna Gvasalia recited a poem by Ukrainian writer Oleksandr Oles, «Live Ukraine, live for beauty,» at the beginning and end of the show. He noted that this show is self-explanatory, as a dedication to «fearlessness, resistance, and the victory of love and peace.»^[35] The brand also made donations to the UN World Food Programme to support Ukrainian refugees.^[36]

Child advertising controversyEdit

In November 2022, an advertising campaign posted on Balenciaga’s Instagram account featured children holding teddy bears dressed in bondage and BDSM gear.^[37] Balenciaga later apologized after heavy criticism and removed all posts connected to the photo campaign. Meanwhile, the photographer, Gabriele Galimberti, said that both the children and the objects which appeared in the photos were all selected by Balenciaga.^[37][38][39] Hours later, Balenciaga apologized for a separate, earlier advertisement, in which a $3,000 Balenciaga handbag sits amongst papers which include the text from a Supreme Court opinion in the Ashcroft v. Free Speech Coalition child pornography case.^[40][37] Balenciaga announced that it was taking legal action against the production company North Six and set designer Nicholas Des Jardins, responsible for the advertisement with the child pornography court document, for $25 million. In response, the set designer’s attorney said that Balenciaga representatives were present at the shoot, and handled the papers and props used.^[41][42] Balenciaga dropped their legal action on December 2.^[43]

In another image, featuring the actress Isabelle Huppert, two art books can be seen in the background: one is based on The Cremaster Cycle (1994–2002) by the filmmaker Matthew Barney and one is As Sweet as It Gets (2014) by the Belgian painter Michaël Borremans. Some Twitter users tried to connect imagery from Barney’s and Borremans’ works to the court document, and based on this suggested there was a hidden message about child abuse in Balenciaga’s marketing material.^[44]

The use of controversial props by Balenciaga was seen by some as an attempt of shockvertising.^[45]

In popular cultureEdit

In the 1997 film For Richer or Poorer, Tim Allen’s character accidentally sets a Balenciaga dress on fire. He tries laughing at it, rhetorically asking, «What the hell’s a Balenciaga?»

On January 29, 2014, the character Myrtle Snow cries «Balenciaga!» as her dying words on the season finale of FX television show American Horror Story: Coven.^[46][47]

Film director Paul Thomas Anderson was inspired to make Phantom Thread when he became interested in the fashion industry after reading about designer Cristóbal Balenciaga.^[48]

Balenciaga collaborated with The Simpsons to create a short film for Paris Fashion Week in 2021.^[49]

In 2022, American rapper and pop singer Lizzo referenced Balenciaga in her number one hit “About Damn Time,” singing “Feeling fussy, walkin’ in my Balenci-ussies.

In 2022, singer Beyoncé released Renaissance. Her song Break My Soul “The Queen’s Remix» tracked with Madonna’s “Vogue” references “House of Balenciaga”.^[50]

Creative directorsEdit

• Cristóbal Balenciaga – 1919 to 1968
• Michel Goma – 1987 to 1992
• Josephus Thimister – 1992 to 1997
• Nicolas Ghesquière – 1997 to 2012
• Alexander Wang – 2013 to 2015
• Demna Gvasalia – 2015 to present

ReferencesEdit

External linksEdit

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Balenciaga.

• Official website
• Paris Fashion Show 2007: Balenciaga Catwalk
• The Cristobal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria, Spain
• Professor Aiko Beall of Otis College of Art and Design on Balenciaga
• Balenciaga – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Balenciaga SA

Type	Subsidiary (société anonyme)
Industry	Fashion
Predecessor	Balenciaga y Compañía EISA, S.A.
Founded	1919; 104 years ago in San Sebastián, Spain
Founder	Cristóbal Balenciaga
Headquarters	Paris , France
Area served	Worldwide
Key people	Cédric Charbit (chief executive officer) Demna Gvasalia (creative director) Martina Tiefenthaler (chief creative officer) Ludivine Pont (chief marketing officer)
Number of employees	1,325 (2019)
Parent	Kering
Website	balenciaga.com

Balenciaga SA ( bə-LEN-see-AH-gə^[1]) is a Spanish luxury fashion house founded in 1919 by the designer Cristóbal Balenciaga in San Sebastian, Spain and based in Paris, France. Balenciaga produces ready-to-wear, footwear, handbags, and accessories and licenses its name and branding to Coty for fragrances.^[2] The brand is currently owned by the French corporation Kering.

History[edit]

Founding to 1980[edit]

Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1919, and expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona.^[3] The Spanish royal family and the aristocracy wore his designs. When the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his stores, Balenciaga moved to Paris.^[3][4]

Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, where his first fashion show featured designs heavily influenced by the Spanish Renaissance.^[3] Balenciaga’s success was nearly immediate. In the period of two years, the press lauded him as a revolutionary, and his designs were highly sought-after.^[3] Carmel Snow, the editor of Harper’s Bazaar, was an early champion of his designs.^[5]

Customers risked their safety to travel to Europe during World War II to see Balenciaga’s clothing.^[3] During this period, he was noted for his «square coat», with sleeves cut in a single piece with the yoke, and for his designs with black (or black and brown) lace over bright pink fabric.^[3] Historians believe that Balenciaga’s continued activity during the Nazi occupation of Paris was made possible by Balenciaga’s connections with Spanish dictator General Francisco Franco who was Adolf Hitler’s close ally.^[6] The relation to Franco was so close in fact, the Balenciaga designed clothing for the Franco family. ^[7] The company was one of only 60 companies allowed to operate during the occupation, and the ongoing supply of raw materials from Spain, which were in short supply in Paris at the time due to the war, gave Balenciaga a competitive advantage. However, Balenciaga testified that he refused Hitler’s request to transfer his company’s activities to Berlin.^[8][9]

During the post-war years, his lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by «Christian Dior’s New Look».^[3] The fluidity of his silhouettes enabled him to manipulate the relationship between his clothing and women’s bodies. In 1951, he transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1958.^[3] Other contributions in the postwar era included the spherical balloon jacket (1953), the high-waisted baby doll dress (1957), the cocoon coat (1957), the balloon skirt (1957), and the sack dress (1957). In 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like kimono. His manipulation of the waist, in particular, contributed to «what is considered to be his most important contribution to the world of fashion: a new silhouette for women.»^[3]

In the 1960s, Balenciaga tended toward heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery, and bold materials.^[3] His trademarks included «collars that stood away from the collarbone to give a swanlike appearance» and shortened «bracelet» sleeves.^[3] His often spare, sculptural creations—including funnel-shape gowns of stiff duchess satin worn to acclaim by clients such as Pauline de Rothschild, Bunny Mellon, Marella Agnelli, Hope Portocarrero, Gloria Guinness, and Mona von Bismarck—were considered masterworks of haute couture in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1960, he designed the wedding dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar and the hips. Jackie Kennedy famously upset her husband by buying Balenciaga’s expensive creations while John F. Kennedy was president, he apparently feared that the American public might think the purchases too lavish. Her haute couture bills were eventually discreetly paid by her father-in-law, Joseph Kennedy.^[10]

Protégés[edit]

Several designers who worked for Balenciaga would go on to open their own successful couture houses, notably Oscar de la Renta (1949), Andre Courreges (1950), Emanuel Ungaro (1958), but his most famous and noted protégé was Hubert de Givenchy, who was the lone designer to side with Balenciaga against the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne and also the press over the scheduling of his shows.^{[citation needed]}

Battle against the press[edit]

In 1957, Balenciaga famously decided to show his collection to the fashion press the day before the clothing retail delivery date, not the standard four weeks before the retail delivery date the fashion industry followed at the time. By keeping the press unaware of the design of his garments until the day before they were shipped to stores, he hoped to curtail ongoing piracy and copying of his designs. The press resisted, finding it nearly impossible to get his work into their print deadlines, but Balenciaga and protégé Givenchy stood firm, seriously impacting their coverage and press of the era. His supporters would argue that rival Christian Dior would gain acclaim from copying Balenciaga’s silhouettes and cuts, claiming them as his own original work; because Balenciaga was not interested in press coverage, the media, and consumers never knew.

In 1967, both designers reversed their decision and joined the traditional schedule.

Battle against the Chambre[edit]

Balenciaga defiantly resisted the rules, guidelines, and bourgeoisie status of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture parisienne, and, thus, was never a member. Although he is spoken of with immense reverence, technically, Balenciaga couture was never haute couture.^{[citation needed]}

Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his fashion house in 1968 and died in 1972. The house lay dormant until 1986.^[3]

1981 to 2010[edit]

Balenciaga is now owned by Kering and its womenswear and menswear was headed by Nicolas Ghesquière.^[11]

In 2002, Balenciaga’s star, Nicolas Ghesquière, imitated the work of Kaisik Wong, a designer from San Francisco. Ghesquiere created a patchwork vest in his spring collection that resembled one that Wong designed in 1973. Ghesquière admitted in an interview in Paris that he had copied the garment.^[12]

Ghesquière’s F/W 2005 line showed that the house was not only making money, but also attracted a number of celebrity customers including editor-in-chief at Vogue, Anna Wintour.^{[citation needed]}

The House of Balenciaga designed the dresses worn by Jennifer Connelly and Nicole Kidman to the 2006 Academy Awards, as well as the wedding gown Kidman wore when she married Keith Urban.^[13] Kylie Minogue also wore a Balenciaga dress for her «Slow» and «Red Blooded Woman» music videos and for her concert tour.^[14]

Balenciaga’s Fall/Winter 2007 show impressed Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Amy Astley so much that an entire spread in the magazine, titled «Global Studies» and shot in Beijing, was influenced by it. The line included skinny jodhpurs, tight, fitted blazers, beaded embellished scarves, and other multicultural mixes.^{[citation needed]}

Balenciaga is known for creating avant-garde, advanced structural pieces, straddling the edge of fashion and forecasting the future of women’s ready-to-wear fashion. Vintage Balenciaga garments are popular among fashion editors, Hollywood stars, and models, and have been seen on Sienna Miller,^[15] Lara Bingle, Raquel Zimmerman,^[16] Caroline Trentini, Emmanuelle Alt,^[17] Tatiana Sorokko,^[18] Hilary Rhoda, Jennifer Garner, and Stephanie Seymour, among others.^[19] Balenciaga is also frequently worn by actress Chloë Sevigny, who is also a muse of Nicolas Ghesquière.

2010 to present[edit]

In March 2011 at San Francisco’s M. H. de Young Museum, Balenciaga celebrated the opening of Balenciaga and Spain, a 120-piece fashion retrospective of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s career. The exhibition included many designs from the museum’s encyclopedic costume collection. «You can’t even measure it», said Rodarte designer Laura Mulleavy of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s influence.^[20] The $2,500-a-ticket fund-raiser for the museum drew 350 guests, including Denise Hale, Marissa Mayer, Vanessa Getty, Victoria Traina, Vanessa Traina, Jamie Tisch, Gwyneth Paltrow, Orlando Bloom, Balthazar Getty, Maggie Rizer, Connie Nielsen, Maria Bello, and Mia Wasikowska.^[20]

In June 2011, the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum opened in Getaria, Spain.^[21]

In November 2012, Balenciaga announced that it was parting with creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, ending his 15-year tenure.^[22][23] The brand announced Alexander Wang as its new creative director.^[23][24] Wang presented his first collection for the label on February 28, 2013, at Paris Fashion Week. In 2014, the Tribunal de grande instance de Paris set a trial date for the lawsuit between Balenciaga vs. Ghesquière.^[25] Balenciaga claimed that Ghesquière’s comments in the magazine System had hurt the company’s image.^[26] The highly publicized suit was mediated out of court.

In July 2015, Balenciaga announced it was parting with creative director Alexander Wang after three years. The Spring/Summer 2016 show was his last, featuring white lounge wear made from soft, natural fabrics.^[27] In early October 2015, the brand appointed Demna Gvasalia as its new creative director.^[28]

In, April 2021 Gvasalia presented his new Pre-Fall 2021 collection, as promoted by Vanity Teen magazine.^[29] In August 2021, Justin Bieber was announced as the new face of Balenciaga.^[30] In September 2021, the brand faced backlash when it released trompe-l’œil sweatpants with the illusion of plaid boxers sticking out the top with a price tag of $1,190.^[31]
In May 2022, Balenciaga announced that it accepts crypto payments.^[32][33]

In October 2022 Balenciaga announced that it was severing its ties to Kanye West due to his anti-semitic comments.^[34]

Support for Ukraine[edit]

In March 2022 during Paris Fashion Week, Balenciaga expressed support for Ukraine during the Russian-Ukrainian War. T-shirts in yellow and blue (like the Ukrainian flag) were placed on the chairs. Creative director Demna Gvasalia recited a poem by Ukrainian writer Oleksandr Oles, «Live Ukraine, live for beauty,» at the beginning and end of the show. He noted that this show is self-explanatory, as a dedication to «fearlessness, resistance, and the victory of love and peace.»^[35] The brand also made donations to the UN World Food Programme to support Ukrainian refugees.^[36]

Child advertising controversy[edit]

In November 2022, an advertising campaign posted on Balenciaga’s Instagram account featured children holding teddy bears dressed in bondage and BDSM gear.^[37] Balenciaga later apologized after heavy criticism and removed all posts connected to the photo campaign. Meanwhile, the photographer, Gabriele Galimberti, said that both the children and the objects which appeared in the photos were all selected by Balenciaga.^[37][38][39] Hours later, Balenciaga apologized for a separate, earlier advertisement, in which a $3,000 Balenciaga handbag sits amongst papers which include the text from a Supreme Court opinion in the Ashcroft v. Free Speech Coalition child pornography case.^[40][37] Balenciaga announced that it was taking legal action against the production company North Six and set designer Nicholas Des Jardins, responsible for the advertisement with the child pornography court document, for $25 million. In response, the set designer’s attorney said that Balenciaga representatives were present at the shoot, and handled the papers and props used.^[41][42] Balenciaga dropped their legal action on December 2.^[43]

In another image, featuring the actress Isabelle Huppert, two art books can be seen in the background: one is based on The Cremaster Cycle (1994–2002) by the filmmaker Matthew Barney and one is As Sweet as It Gets (2014) by the Belgian painter Michaël Borremans. Some Twitter users tried to connect imagery from Barney’s and Borremans’ works to the court document, and based on this suggested there was a hidden message about child abuse in Balenciaga’s marketing material.^[44]

The use of controversial props by Balenciaga was seen by some as an attempt of shockvertising.^[45]

In popular culture[edit]

In the 1997 film For Richer or Poorer, Tim Allen’s character accidentally sets a Balenciaga dress on fire. He tries laughing at it, rhetorically asking, «What the hell’s a Balenciaga?»

On January 29, 2014, the character Myrtle Snow cries «Balenciaga!» as her dying words on the season finale of FX television show American Horror Story: Coven.^[46][47]

Film director Paul Thomas Anderson was inspired to make Phantom Thread when he became interested in the fashion industry after reading about designer Cristóbal Balenciaga.^[48]

Balenciaga collaborated with The Simpsons to create a short film for Paris Fashion Week in 2021.^[49]

In 2022, American rapper and pop singer Lizzo referenced Balenciaga in her number one hit “About Damn Time,” singing “Feeling fussy, walkin’ in my Balenci-ussies.

In 2022, singer Beyoncé released Renaissance. Her song Break My Soul “The Queen’s Remix» tracked with Madonna’s “Vogue” references “House of Balenciaga”.^[50]

Creative directors[edit]

• Cristóbal Balenciaga – 1919 to 1968
• Michel Goma – 1987 to 1992
• Josephus Thimister – 1992 to 1997
• Nicolas Ghesquière – 1997 to 2012
• Alexander Wang – 2013 to 2015
• Demna Gvasalia – 2015 to present

References[edit]

External links[edit]

• Official website
• Paris Fashion Show 2007: Balenciaga Catwalk
• The Cristobal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria, Spain
• Professor Aiko Beall of Otis College of Art and Design on Balenciaga
• Balenciaga – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Balenciaga SA

Type	Subsidiary (société anonyme)
Industry	Fashion
Predecessor	Balenciaga y Compañía EISA, S.A.
Founded	1919; 104 years ago in San Sebastián, Spain
Founder	Cristóbal Balenciaga
Headquarters	Paris , France
Area served	Worldwide
Key people	Cédric Charbit (chief executive officer) Demna Gvasalia (creative director) Martina Tiefenthaler (chief creative officer) Ludivine Pont (chief marketing officer)
Number of employees	1,325 (2019)
Parent	Kering
Website	balenciaga.com

Balenciaga SA ( bə-LEN-see-AH-gə^[1]) is a Spanish luxury fashion house founded in 1919 by the designer Cristóbal Balenciaga in San Sebastian, Spain and based in Paris, France. Balenciaga produces ready-to-wear, footwear, handbags, and accessories and licenses its name and branding to Coty for fragrances.^[2] The brand is currently owned by the French corporation Kering.

History[edit]

Founding to 1980[edit]

Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1919, and expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona.^[3] The Spanish royal family and the aristocracy wore his designs. When the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his stores, Balenciaga moved to Paris.^[3][4]

Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, where his first fashion show featured designs heavily influenced by the Spanish Renaissance.^[3] Balenciaga’s success was nearly immediate. In the period of two years, the press lauded him as a revolutionary, and his designs were highly sought-after.^[3] Carmel Snow, the editor of Harper’s Bazaar, was an early champion of his designs.^[5]

Customers risked their safety to travel to Europe during World War II to see Balenciaga’s clothing.^[3] During this period, he was noted for his «square coat», with sleeves cut in a single piece with the yoke, and for his designs with black (or black and brown) lace over bright pink fabric.^[3] Historians believe that Balenciaga’s continued activity during the Nazi occupation of Paris was made possible by Balenciaga’s connections with Spanish dictator General Francisco Franco who was Adolf Hitler’s close ally.^[6] The relation to Franco was so close in fact, the Balenciaga designed clothing for the Franco family. ^[7] The company was one of only 60 companies allowed to operate during the occupation, and the ongoing supply of raw materials from Spain, which were in short supply in Paris at the time due to the war, gave Balenciaga a competitive advantage. However, Balenciaga testified that he refused Hitler’s request to transfer his company’s activities to Berlin.^[8][9]

During the post-war years, his lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by «Christian Dior’s New Look».^[3] The fluidity of his silhouettes enabled him to manipulate the relationship between his clothing and women’s bodies. In 1951, he transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1958.^[3] Other contributions in the postwar era included the spherical balloon jacket (1953), the high-waisted baby doll dress (1957), the cocoon coat (1957), the balloon skirt (1957), and the sack dress (1957). In 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like kimono. His manipulation of the waist, in particular, contributed to «what is considered to be his most important contribution to the world of fashion: a new silhouette for women.»^[3]

In the 1960s, Balenciaga tended toward heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery, and bold materials.^[3] His trademarks included «collars that stood away from the collarbone to give a swanlike appearance» and shortened «bracelet» sleeves.^[3] His often spare, sculptural creations—including funnel-shape gowns of stiff duchess satin worn to acclaim by clients such as Pauline de Rothschild, Bunny Mellon, Marella Agnelli, Hope Portocarrero, Gloria Guinness, and Mona von Bismarck—were considered masterworks of haute couture in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1960, he designed the wedding dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar and the hips. Jackie Kennedy famously upset her husband by buying Balenciaga’s expensive creations while John F. Kennedy was president, he apparently feared that the American public might think the purchases too lavish. Her haute couture bills were eventually discreetly paid by her father-in-law, Joseph Kennedy.^[10]

Protégés[edit]

Several designers who worked for Balenciaga would go on to open their own successful couture houses, notably Oscar de la Renta (1949), Andre Courreges (1950), Emanuel Ungaro (1958), but his most famous and noted protégé was Hubert de Givenchy, who was the lone designer to side with Balenciaga against the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne and also the press over the scheduling of his shows.^{[citation needed]}

Battle against the press[edit]

In 1957, Balenciaga famously decided to show his collection to the fashion press the day before the clothing retail delivery date, not the standard four weeks before the retail delivery date the fashion industry followed at the time. By keeping the press unaware of the design of his garments until the day before they were shipped to stores, he hoped to curtail ongoing piracy and copying of his designs. The press resisted, finding it nearly impossible to get his work into their print deadlines, but Balenciaga and protégé Givenchy stood firm, seriously impacting their coverage and press of the era. His supporters would argue that rival Christian Dior would gain acclaim from copying Balenciaga’s silhouettes and cuts, claiming them as his own original work; because Balenciaga was not interested in press coverage, the media, and consumers never knew.

In 1967, both designers reversed their decision and joined the traditional schedule.

Battle against the Chambre[edit]

Balenciaga defiantly resisted the rules, guidelines, and bourgeoisie status of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture parisienne, and, thus, was never a member. Although he is spoken of with immense reverence, technically, Balenciaga couture was never haute couture.^{[citation needed]}

Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his fashion house in 1968 and died in 1972. The house lay dormant until 1986.^[3]

1981 to 2010[edit]

Balenciaga is now owned by Kering and its womenswear and menswear was headed by Nicolas Ghesquière.^[11]

In 2002, Balenciaga’s star, Nicolas Ghesquière, imitated the work of Kaisik Wong, a designer from San Francisco. Ghesquiere created a patchwork vest in his spring collection that resembled one that Wong designed in 1973. Ghesquière admitted in an interview in Paris that he had copied the garment.^[12]

Ghesquière’s F/W 2005 line showed that the house was not only making money, but also attracted a number of celebrity customers including editor-in-chief at Vogue, Anna Wintour.^{[citation needed]}

The House of Balenciaga designed the dresses worn by Jennifer Connelly and Nicole Kidman to the 2006 Academy Awards, as well as the wedding gown Kidman wore when she married Keith Urban.^[13] Kylie Minogue also wore a Balenciaga dress for her «Slow» and «Red Blooded Woman» music videos and for her concert tour.^[14]

Balenciaga’s Fall/Winter 2007 show impressed Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Amy Astley so much that an entire spread in the magazine, titled «Global Studies» and shot in Beijing, was influenced by it. The line included skinny jodhpurs, tight, fitted blazers, beaded embellished scarves, and other multicultural mixes.^{[citation needed]}

Balenciaga is known for creating avant-garde, advanced structural pieces, straddling the edge of fashion and forecasting the future of women’s ready-to-wear fashion. Vintage Balenciaga garments are popular among fashion editors, Hollywood stars, and models, and have been seen on Sienna Miller,^[15] Lara Bingle, Raquel Zimmerman,^[16] Caroline Trentini, Emmanuelle Alt,^[17] Tatiana Sorokko,^[18] Hilary Rhoda, Jennifer Garner, and Stephanie Seymour, among others.^[19] Balenciaga is also frequently worn by actress Chloë Sevigny, who is also a muse of Nicolas Ghesquière.

2010 to present[edit]

In March 2011 at San Francisco’s M. H. de Young Museum, Balenciaga celebrated the opening of Balenciaga and Spain, a 120-piece fashion retrospective of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s career. The exhibition included many designs from the museum’s encyclopedic costume collection. «You can’t even measure it», said Rodarte designer Laura Mulleavy of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s influence.^[20] The $2,500-a-ticket fund-raiser for the museum drew 350 guests, including Denise Hale, Marissa Mayer, Vanessa Getty, Victoria Traina, Vanessa Traina, Jamie Tisch, Gwyneth Paltrow, Orlando Bloom, Balthazar Getty, Maggie Rizer, Connie Nielsen, Maria Bello, and Mia Wasikowska.^[20]

In June 2011, the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum opened in Getaria, Spain.^[21]

In November 2012, Balenciaga announced that it was parting with creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, ending his 15-year tenure.^[22][23] The brand announced Alexander Wang as its new creative director.^[23][24] Wang presented his first collection for the label on February 28, 2013, at Paris Fashion Week. In 2014, the Tribunal de grande instance de Paris set a trial date for the lawsuit between Balenciaga vs. Ghesquière.^[25] Balenciaga claimed that Ghesquière’s comments in the magazine System had hurt the company’s image.^[26] The highly publicized suit was mediated out of court.

In July 2015, Balenciaga announced it was parting with creative director Alexander Wang after three years. The Spring/Summer 2016 show was his last, featuring white lounge wear made from soft, natural fabrics.^[27] In early October 2015, the brand appointed Demna Gvasalia as its new creative director.^[28]

In, April 2021 Gvasalia presented his new Pre-Fall 2021 collection, as promoted by Vanity Teen magazine.^[29] In August 2021, Justin Bieber was announced as the new face of Balenciaga.^[30] In September 2021, the brand faced backlash when it released trompe-l’œil sweatpants with the illusion of plaid boxers sticking out the top with a price tag of $1,190.^[31]
In May 2022, Balenciaga announced that it accepts crypto payments.^[32][33]

In October 2022 Balenciaga announced that it was severing its ties to Kanye West due to his anti-semitic comments.^[34]

Support for Ukraine[edit]

In March 2022 during Paris Fashion Week, Balenciaga expressed support for Ukraine during the Russian-Ukrainian War. T-shirts in yellow and blue (like the Ukrainian flag) were placed on the chairs. Creative director Demna Gvasalia recited a poem by Ukrainian writer Oleksandr Oles, «Live Ukraine, live for beauty,» at the beginning and end of the show. He noted that this show is self-explanatory, as a dedication to «fearlessness, resistance, and the victory of love and peace.»^[35] The brand also made donations to the UN World Food Programme to support Ukrainian refugees.^[36]

Child advertising controversy[edit]

In November 2022, an advertising campaign posted on Balenciaga’s Instagram account featured children holding teddy bears dressed in bondage and BDSM gear.^[37] Balenciaga later apologized after heavy criticism and removed all posts connected to the photo campaign. Meanwhile, the photographer, Gabriele Galimberti, said that both the children and the objects which appeared in the photos were all selected by Balenciaga.^[37][38][39] Hours later, Balenciaga apologized for a separate, earlier advertisement, in which a $3,000 Balenciaga handbag sits amongst papers which include the text from a Supreme Court opinion in the Ashcroft v. Free Speech Coalition child pornography case.^[40][37] Balenciaga announced that it was taking legal action against the production company North Six and set designer Nicholas Des Jardins, responsible for the advertisement with the child pornography court document, for $25 million. In response, the set designer’s attorney said that Balenciaga representatives were present at the shoot, and handled the papers and props used.^[41][42] Balenciaga dropped their legal action on December 2.^[43]

In another image, featuring the actress Isabelle Huppert, two art books can be seen in the background: one is based on The Cremaster Cycle (1994–2002) by the filmmaker Matthew Barney and one is As Sweet as It Gets (2014) by the Belgian painter Michaël Borremans. Some Twitter users tried to connect imagery from Barney’s and Borremans’ works to the court document, and based on this suggested there was a hidden message about child abuse in Balenciaga’s marketing material.^[44]

The use of controversial props by Balenciaga was seen by some as an attempt of shockvertising.^[45]

In popular culture[edit]

In the 1997 film For Richer or Poorer, Tim Allen’s character accidentally sets a Balenciaga dress on fire. He tries laughing at it, rhetorically asking, «What the hell’s a Balenciaga?»

On January 29, 2014, the character Myrtle Snow cries «Balenciaga!» as her dying words on the season finale of FX television show American Horror Story: Coven.^[46][47]

Film director Paul Thomas Anderson was inspired to make Phantom Thread when he became interested in the fashion industry after reading about designer Cristóbal Balenciaga.^[48]

Balenciaga collaborated with The Simpsons to create a short film for Paris Fashion Week in 2021.^[49]

In 2022, American rapper and pop singer Lizzo referenced Balenciaga in her number one hit “About Damn Time,” singing “Feeling fussy, walkin’ in my Balenci-ussies.

In 2022, singer Beyoncé released Renaissance. Her song Break My Soul “The Queen’s Remix» tracked with Madonna’s “Vogue” references “House of Balenciaga”.^[50]

Creative directors[edit]

• Cristóbal Balenciaga – 1919 to 1968
• Michel Goma – 1987 to 1992
• Josephus Thimister – 1992 to 1997
• Nicolas Ghesquière – 1997 to 2012
• Alexander Wang – 2013 to 2015
• Demna Gvasalia – 2015 to present

References[edit]

External links[edit]

• Official website
• Paris Fashion Show 2007: Balenciaga Catwalk
• The Cristobal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria, Spain
• Professor Aiko Beall of Otis College of Art and Design on Balenciaga
• Balenciaga – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory

Вы когда-нибудь сталкивались с тем, что, глядя на бирку нового платья, даже отдаленно не представляете, как соединить эту последовательность букв в единое слово? Такое случается даже с профессионалами! Специально для таких ситуаций мы подготовили шпаргалку с правилами произношения имен дизайнеров и названий брендов.

Philipp Plein – Филипп Пляйн – дизайнер родился в Германии, поэтому его имя нужно произносить именно так, на немецкий манер, а не на английский – Плейн, как это делают обычно. Называем же мы Calvin Klein Кэльвином Кляйном, фонетически их имена схожи.

Дизайнера Nicolas Ghesquière по настоятельным просьбам пресс-службы компании следует называть Николя Жескьер, а не Николя Гескьер, а подвластный ему бренд Louis Vuitton в русском варианте произносится как «Луи Виттон», но никак не «Луи Вьюттон» или «Луи Вуиттон».

Бельгийского дизайнера Ann Demeulemeester стоит называть Анн Демельмейстер – вариаций на тему ее имени существует великое множесто.

Модный Дом Lanvin произносится как «Ланван», это особенности французского произношения. Поэтому забудьте о «Ланвин» или «Ланвен». А руководителя бренда зовут Альбер Эльбаз (Alber Elbaz).

Название бренда Marchesa стоит читать по итальянским правилам – «Маркеза», а не «Марчеза» по-английски, потому что компания получила свое имя в честь итальянской аристократки маркизы Луизы Казати.

По тем же правилам читается название бренда Moschino – «Москино».

Hermes — Эрмес — и никак иначе. А Гермесом зовут древнегреческого бога торговли и прибыли. Кроме того, название бренда часто произносят как «Эрмэ» и, казалось бы, по правилам французской транскрипции это верно. Но не стоит забывать, что в каждом правиле есть исключения. Это именно такой случай.

Имя французского дизайнера тунисского происхождения Azzedine Alaia произносится как «Аззедин Алайя», обычно в ступор вводят три гласных подряд в его фамилии.

Badgley Mischka – это вовсе не имя одного человека, как могло бы показаться, а фамилии основателей дизайнерского дуэта – Марка Бэджли и Джеймса Мишки. Соответственно, название бренда звучит так: «Бэджли Мишка».

Часто встречаются различные варианты произношения названия Vionnet – «Вайонет» или «Вионнет». На самом деле, все просто: Вионнэ с ударением на «э». Именно так звучала фамилия основательницы французского Дома, легендарной Мадлен Вионне.

Бандажные платья Hervé Léger знают все, а вот как произносить название бренда, многие не догадываются. Правильный ответ – «Эрве Лэже», а не «Херве Леджер» или «Хэрвэ Леге».

Название Elie Saab звучит как «Эли Сааб». И, кстати, ливанский дизайнер – мужчина, а не женщина, как думают многие.

Его земляк, близкий ему по духу и по стилю, – Zuhair Murad. На русском это звучит так – Зухэйр Мурад. «Э» произносится не чисто, а близко к «А».

Француз Thierry Mugler – Тьери Мюглер. Ничего сложного!

Американский бренд Proenza Schouler произносится как «Проэнза Скулер», пусть даже порой хочется назвать его «Шулером».

Название бренда Balenciaga звучит как «Баленсиага».

Дом Givenchy следует называть Живанши, а не на американский манер – «Дживенши».

В англоязычных странах название Balmain часто произносят как «Бальмейн», но корректно оно должно звучать как «Бальман», при этом буква «н» на конце практически не произносится.

Бренд Comme Des Garçons японский, но название его – французское, поэтому говорить следует «Ком де Гарсо́н». Без «с» в обоих случаях.

Как только не произносят название испанской марки Loewe! И действительно, правила прононса этого слова объяснить затруднительно. В итоге должно получиться что-то между «Лоэвэ» и «Лоуэвэ», но обязательно с гласным звуком на конце.

Имя Rei Kawakubo, может быть, и выглядит сложно, но произносится довольно легко – «Рей Кавакубо».

Имя знаменитого на весь мир обувного дизайнера Christian Louboutin по правилам звучит ближе всего к «Кристиан Лубутан». Хотя ошибиться легко, даже в профессиональных кругах можно услышать «Лабутен», «Лобутан» или «Лабутин». Чтобы не усложнять себе жизнь, многие поклонницы бренда ласково называют свои новые туфли «Лубис».

Одна из главных мистификаций модного мира – правильное произношение названия бренда Nike. Только в России некорректный вариант «Найк» прижился настолько, что звучит даже с экранов телевизоров. На самом деле, по всему миру марка называется «Найки».

Сложные на вид имена Giambattista Valli и Gianfranco Ferre оказываются не так уж и сложны, когда дело доходит до произношения – Жамбаттиста Валли и Жанфранко Ферре соответственно.

Бабушку трикотажа и любительницу веселых расцветок Sonia Rykiel нужно называть Соня Рикель.

Hedi Slimane тоже часто называют неверно, но все проще, чем кажется: Эди Слиман, а не Хеди Слайман.

Burberry Prorsum звучит как «Бёрбери Прорсум», а не «Барбери Прорсум» или «Бурбери Прорсум».

Бельгийского дизайнера Dries Van Noten следует именовать Дрис Ван Нотен.

В начале XX века Elsa Schiaparelli была известна не меньше, чем Coco Chanel. Затем итальянский модный Дом пришел в упадок и правила произношения имени основательницы позабылись. Сейчас компания переживает второе рождение, так что пора освежить знания – Эльза Скиапарелли.

Mary Katrantzou родилась в Греции, но творит в Британии. Там ее называют Мэри Катранзу.

Продолжение следует

На основании Вашего запроса эти примеры могут содержать грубую лексику.

На основании Вашего запроса эти примеры могут содержать разговорную лексику.

По словам основателя Farfetch Жозе Невеша, бренд Balenciaga весьма популярен среди пользователей онлайн-платформы.

According to José Neves, the founder of Farfetch, the brand Balenciaga is very popular among users of the online platform.

Однако, цены на ИКЕА и на французский бренд Balenciaga отличаются.

However, the prices of IKEA and the French brand Balenciaga different.

Итальянская люксовая марка стала самой упоминаемой во втором квартале 2018 года и сместила с пьедестала почета лидера прошлого года, бренд Balenciaga, который сейчас расположился на третьем месте.

The Italian luxury brand has become the most referred to in the second quarter of 2018 and slipped from the podium of the last year leader, the brand Balenciaga, which is now situated in third place.

В 2000 году итальянская компания Gucci Group купила известный бренд Balenciaga.

In 2000, the Gucci Group bought Balenciaga.

Ничего не найдено для этого значения.

Balenciaga — дом моды, основанный в 1919 году испанским дизайнером Кристобалем Баленсиагой в Сан-Себастьяне и в настоящее время базирующийся в Париже. Balenciaga закрылся в 1968 году и вновь открылся под управлением нового владельца в 1986 году. Ныне дом Balenciaga принадлежит французской модной группе Kering^[en]*.

История

Кристобаль Баленсиага открыл свой первый бутик в Сан-Себастьяне (Испания) в 1919 году, позднее расширив свой бизнес за счёт филиалов в Мадриде и Барселоне.^[1] Среди клиентов дома Balenciaga были испанская королевская семья и аристократия, но когда испанская гражданская война заставила Баленсиагу закрыть свои магазины, он перебрался в Париж.^[1][2]

В Париже Баленсиага обосновался на авеню Георга V^[fr] в августе 1937 года. На первом показе мод он продемонстрировал дизайн с сильным влиянием испанского Ренессанса^[1] — Balenciaga представил на суд зрителей стиль ампир, считавшийся новинкой для того времени^[3]. Успех последовал незамедлительно. В течение первых двух лет после открытия французская пресса восхваляла Баленсиагу как революционера, его идеи были очень востребованы.^[1] Кармел Сноу^[en], редактор Harper’s Bazaar с 1934 по 1958, была одним из первых участников его проектов.^[4]

Популярность Баленсиаги была настолько велика, что даже во время Второй мировой войны клиенты, рискуя своей безопасностью, приезжали в Париж, чтобы увидеть его новинки.^[1] В этот период он был отмечен за своё «квадратное пальто».^[1]

Однако только в послевоенные годы стал очевиден полный масштаб изобретательности этого оригинального дизайнера. Его линии стали более линейными и гладкими, отклоняясь от формы песочных часов, популяризированной «Новым обликом» Кристиана Диора.^[1] Гибкость его силуэтов позволила ему манипулировать отношениями между одеждой и женскими телами.^[1] В 1951 году Баленсиага полностью изменил силуэт, расширив плечи и сняв талию. Его манипуляция талией, в частности, способствовала «тому, что считается его самым важным вкладом в мир моды: новый силуэт для женщин».^[1]

В 1960-х годах Баленсиага был новатором в использовании тканей: он тяготел к тяжёлым тканям, сложной вышивке и смелым материалам.^[1] Его творения, в том числе воронкообразные платья из жёсткого атласа, которые носили такие клиенты, как писательница Полин де Ротшильд^[en], филантроп и коллекционер Банни Меллон^[en], коллекционер Марелла Агнелли^[en], супруга и мать никарагуанских диктаторов Сомоса Хоуп Портокарреро^[en], редактор Harper’s Bazaar в 1963—1971 годах Глория Гиннесс^[en] и филантроп Мона фон Бисмарк^[en] — считались образцом от-кутюр в 1950-х и 1960-х годах. В 1960 году он разработал свадебное платье для будущей бельгийской королевы Фабиолы. Джеки Кеннеди охотно покупала дорогие творения Баленсиаги, расстраивая Джона Ф. Кеннеди, который, будучи президентом США опасался, что американская публика может подумать, что траты на покупки слишком щедры. В конце концов покупки Джеки были незаметно оплачены её тестем Джозефом Кеннеди.

Протеже

Несколько дизайнеров, которые работали в доме Balenciaga, позднее открыли свои успешные дома моды, в частности Оскар де ла Рента (1949), Андре Курреж (1950), Эмануэль Унгаро (1958), но самым известным протеже был Юбер де Живанши, который был принят в Синдикат высокой моды^[en].

Битва против прессы

В 1957 году Баленсиага решил показать свою коллекцию модной прессе за день до даты её поступления в розничную продажу, а не за четыре недели, как практиковалось в то время в индустрии моды. Не позволяя прессе узнать о дизайне его одежды до дня, прежде чем они были отправлены в магазины, дизайнер тем самым надеялся ограничить пиратство и копирование своих вещей. Пресса выступила против подобного новшества, но Баленсиага и его протеже Живанши твёрдо стояли на своём. Их сторонники утверждают, что Кристиан Диор во многом преуспел в модной индустрии за счёт копирования силуэтов и покроя Баленсиаги, представляя их как свою собственную оригинальную работу; потому то Кристобаль и не был заинтересован ранним освещением средствами массовой информации своих коллекций.

В 1967 году оба дизайнера отменили свое решение и вернулись к традиционному графику.

Битва против Синдиката и закрытие (1968)

Баленсиага решительно сопротивлялся правилам Синдиката высокой моды и, таким образом, никогда не был его членом. Хотя о нём говорят с огромным почтением, технически вещи Balenciaga никогда не были высокой модой.^[5]

Кристобаль Баленсиага закрыл свой дом моды в 1968 году и скончался в 1972 году. Дом был бездействующим до 1986 года.^[1]

Второе открытие (1986)

В 1986 году компания Jacques Bogart S.A. приобрела права на торговую марку Balenciaga и открыла новую линию одежды прет-а-порте «Le Dix». Первая коллекция была разработана французским стилистом Мишелем Гома^[fr] в октябре 1987 года, который оставался в доме в течение следующих пяти лет. В 1992 году его сменил голландский дизайнер Джозеф Тимистер^[en], который начал восстановление бренда Balenciaga до элитного статуса высокой моды. Во время работы Тимистера креативным директором к дому присоединился французский дизайнер Николя Жескьер, в 1997 году сам возглавивший компанию^[5] и занимавший свой пост рекордные пятнадцать лет.^[6]

В 1992 году Дом Баленсиаги создал одежду для французской команды, участвовавшей в летних Олимпийских играх 1992 года в Барселоне.

Ныне дом Balenciaga принадлежит французской модной группе Kering^[en]*, ранее известной как Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (PPR), а его креативным директором с 2015 года является грузинский дизайнер Демна Гвасалия.^[7]

Balenciaga имеет восемь эксклюзивных бутиков в США, в том числе, в Нью-Йорке на 22-й улице, Лос-Анджелесе на Мелроуз-авеню, два в Лас-Вегасе, в Caesars Palace и на Лас-Вегас-Стрип в Crystals at CityCenter, а также в Коста-Меса (Ориндж, Калифорния), Гонолулу, Бэл-Харбор^[en] (Майами-Дейд, Флорида) и в Далласе (штат Техас).

24 марта 2011 года в Сан-Франциско в Музее де Янга состоялось открытие выставки «Баленсиага и Испания», посвящённой карьере Кристобаля Баленсиаги. Выставка включала в себя множество моделей Balenciaga из коллекции костюмов Музея, которая может похвастаться впечатляющими запасами творений дизайнера.

В ноябре 2012 года Balenciaga объявила о расставании с креативным директором Николя Жескьером, завершив его 15-летнее пребывание на посту^[8]. Бренд объявил Александра Вана новым креативным директором^[9]. Ван представил свою первую коллекцию для бренда 28 февраля 2013 года на Неделе моды в Париже. В 2014 году Суд высшей инстанции Парижа назначил дату судебного разбирательства по иску Balenciaga против Жескьера^[10]. Balenciaga утверждала, что комментарии Жескьера в журнале System нанесли ущерб имиджу компании^[11]. Получивший широкую огласку иск был рассмотрен во внесудебном порядке.

В июле 2015 года Balenciaga объявила о расставании с креативным директором Александром Ваном после трех лет работы. Показ весна-лето 2016 стал его последним, на нем была представлена белая одежда для отдыха из мягких натуральных тканей^[12]. В начале октября 2015 года бренд назначил Демну Гвасалию своим новым креативным директором^[13]. Широкую популярность получили вышедшие в 2017 году кроссовки Triple S^[14]. В августе 2021 года Джастин Бибер был объявлен новым лицом Balenciaga^[15].

Поддержка Украины

В марте 2022 года во время Парижской недели моды бренд выразил свою поддержку Украине, сильно пострадавшей от российского вторжения во время Российско-Украинской войны. Гостям раздали футболки желто-голубого цвета, как у украинского флага, а в начале и конце показа креативный директор Balenciaga Демна Гвасалия декламировал стихотворение украинского писателя Александра Олеся «Живи Украина, живи для красоты». Он отметил, что это шоу не требует объяснений, ведь оно посвящено «бесстрашию, сопротивлению и победе любви и мира».^[16] Balenciaga также удалили все фотографии на своей странице в Инстаграм, оставив лишь одну, где размещен украинский флаг, и сделали пожертвования во Всемирную продовольственную программу ООН, чтобы поддержать украинских беженцев.^[17][18]

Креативные директора

• 1919—1968 — Кристобаль Баленсиага
• 1987—1992 — Мишель Гома^[fr]
• 1992—1997 — Джозеф Тимистер^[en]
• 1997—2012 — Николя Жескьер
• 2012—2015 — Александр Ван^[19][20]
• 2015—н. в. — Демна Гвасалия

Примечания

Ссылки

• balenciaga.com (англ.) — официальный сайт дома моды Balenciaga
• Balenciaga (англ.) профиль компании на сайте Fashion Model Directory^[en]

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