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Calvin Klein Inc.

CK Calvin Klein logo.svg
Type Subsidiary
Industry Apparel, perfume, fashion
Founded 1968; 55 years ago
Founders
  • Calvin Klein
  • Barry K. Schwartz
Headquarters

New York City

,

U.S.

Area served

Worldwide

Key people

  • Cheryl Abel-Hodges (CEO)
  • Gene Gosselin (CFO)
Products Apparel, perfume, undergarments, watches, etc.
Services Retailing

Number of employees

1001–5000 (2015)[citation needed]
Parent PVH (2002–present)
Website calvinklein.com

Calvin Klein Inc. () is an internationally operating, American fashion house. The company, which became famous for its designer underwear and denim lines in the 1980s, specializes in mass-market ready-to-wear clothing for all genders and age groups as well as leather products, lifestyle accessories and shoes, home furnishings, perfume/cosmetics, eyewear, jewellery and watches in the mid-price segment. Its high-end runway fashion division, which represented the top level of the various Calvin Klein sub-brands, was discontinued in 2019.

The company was founded by designer Calvin Klein and his childhood friend, Barry K. Schwartz, in 1968[1][2] and was acquired by PVH Corp. for a total of $700 million in 2003. It is headquartered in Midtown Manhattan, New York City,[3] and has substantial market share in retail and commercial lines around the globe. In 2013, PVH bought Warnaco Group, one of the largest Calvin Klein licensees, for around $3 billion. Global retail sales under the Calvin Klein brand, including sales by the label’s 40 licensees, amounted to $8.5 billion in 2021.

History[edit]

The early years[edit]

Calvin Klein was one of several design leaders raised in the Jewish community in the Bronx, along with Robert Denning and Ralph Lauren.[4] He became a protégé of Baron de Gunzburg,[5] through whose introductions he became the toast of the New York elite fashion scene even before he had his first mainstream success with the launch of his first jeans line. He was immediately recognized for his talent after his first major showing at New York Fashion Week.

In 1968, Klein founded Calvin Klein Limited, a coat shop in the York Hotel in New York City, with $10,000.[6][7] The first Calvin Klein collection was a line of «youthful, understated coats and dresses» featured at the New York City store Bonwit Teller.[6]

In September 1969, Klein appeared on the cover of Vogue magazine.[8]

1970s[edit]

By 1971, Klein had added sportswear, classic blazers, and lingerie to his women’s collection.[citation needed]

In 1973, he received his first Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for his 74-piece womenswear collection – the youngest recipient at that time.[8] Klein won the award again in 1974 and 1975.[8] By 1977, annual revenues had increased to $30 million (equivalent to $134 million in 2023), and Klein had licenses for scarves, shoes, belts, furs, sunglasses, and bedsheets. Klein and Schwartz were making $4 million each. After the company signed licenses for cosmetics, jeans, and menswear, Klein’s annual retail volume was estimated[by whom?] at $100 million (equivalent to $447 million in 2023). In 1978, Klein claimed sales of 200,000 pairs of his famous jeans the first week they were on the market. By 1981, Fortune figured Klein’s annual income at $8.5 million. In the mid-1970s, he had created a designer-jeans craze by putting his name on the back pocket. Klein’s design assistant at the time, Jeffrey Banks, has claimed credit for the logo garments, stating that he had the logo from a press folder silkscreened onto the sleeve of a brown T-shirt as a present for Klein.[9] The gift was assumed by Schwartz to be part of the upcoming line, and similar logo shirts formed the uniform for the front-of-house staff at Klein’s next catwalk show, leading to buyer demand.[9]

In the late 1970s, the company also made attempts to set up its own fragrance and cosmetics lines, but soon withdrew from the market with big financial losses.[citation needed]

1980s[edit]

In the 1980s, as the designer-jeans frenzy reached its all-time high, Calvin Klein introduced a highly successful line of boxer shorts for women and a men’s underwear collection which would later gross $70 million in a single year.[citation needed] The American market of men’s underwear was changed – from one where most men’s underwear was white, purchased in packs of three by a «wife, mother or girlfriend when they needed to be» to one where «the American male [cares] about the brand of something few ever see».[10]

Growth continued through the early eighties. The licensing program, which brought in $24,000 when it was initiated in 1974 (equivalent to $131,870 in 2021), had royalty income of $7.3 million ten years later (equivalent to $19.04 million in 2023). That year, worldwide retail sales were estimated at more than $60 million (equivalent to $1564.96 million in 2023). Klein’s clothes were sold through 12,000 stores in the United States and were available in six other countries through licensing deals, namely Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. His annual income passed $12 million (equivalent to $31.3 million in 2023).

Financial problems increased pressure from all sides, disagreements with the licensee of the menswear line and its disappointing sales as well as an enormous employee turnover both within Calvin Klein and its licensing partners led to the first rumors that Calvin Klein Industries, as the company had been known by then, was up for sale. And indeed, in late 1987, it was said[who?] that the sale of the company to Triangle Industries, a container manufacturer, had only failed because of the crashing stock market.

1990s[edit]

Although the company almost faced bankruptcy in 1992, Calvin Klein managed to regain and increase the profitability of his empire throughout the later 1990s, mainly through the success of its highly popular underwear and fragrance lines, as well as the ck sportswear line. During his 1990–1995 stint as Calvin Klein’s head of menswear design, John Varvatos pioneered a type of men’s underwear called boxer briefs, a hybrid of boxer shorts and briefs.[11] Made famous by a series of 1992 print ads featuring Mark «Marky Mark» Wahlberg,[11][12] they have been called «one of the greatest apparel revolutions of the century.»[11]

Klein was named «America’s Best Designer» for his minimalist all-American designs in 1993, and it came as a surprise in 1999 when it was announced that CKI was again up for sale. Planning to expand its business, the company had been approached by two luxury goods companies, LVMH and Pinault Printemps Redoute, to join Calvin Klein, but nothing resulted. Other potentials like Tommy Hilfiger Corp. and Italy’s Holding di Partecipazioni proved to be similar disappointments because of CKI’s steep price tag of supposedly $1 billion. After seven months and no potential buyer, Klein announced that his empire was not on the market anymore. The company would never manage to go public, which had supposedly been Klein’s plan once.

Former logo from 1975 to 2017

2002–present: Acquisition by Phillips van Heusen[edit]

In mid-December 2002, Calvin Klein Inc. (CKI) was sold to Phillips Van Heusen Corp (PVH),[13] whose then CEO Bruce Klatsky[14] was the driving force behind the deal, for about $400 million in cash, $30 million in stock as well as licensing rights and royalties linked to revenues over the following 15 years that were estimated at $200 to $300 million.[15] The sale also included an ongoing personal financial incentive for Klein based on future sales of the Calvin Klein brand.

PVH outbid VF Corp., the maker of Lee and Wrangler jeans, which had also been interested in the jeans, underwear and swimwear business of CK that had been controlled by Warnaco Group, maker of Speedo swimwear in the US, since 1997. The deal with PVH did not include these businesses, and they remained with Warnaco. Unable to pay debts from acquisitions and licensing agreements and due to bad publicity by a later dismissed lawsuit with Calvin Klein over selling license products to retailers other than agreed upon with Calvin Klein, Warnaco had filed for chapter 11 protection in mid-2001 but eventually emerged from bankruptcy in February 2003.[16]

The transaction between Calvin Klein and PVH was financially supported by Apax Partners Inc., a New York private equity firm, which is said to have made a $250 million equity investment in PVH convertible preferred stock, as well as a $125 million, two-year secured note, all in exchange for seats on the board of PVH.[17]

CKI thus became a wholly owned subsidiary of PVH. In the beginning, Klein himself, who was included as a person in the 15-year contract he had signed with PVH, remained creative head of the collections but then continued as an advisor (consulting creative director) to the new company from 2003 on and has since been more withdrawn from the business. Barry K. Schwartz was said to concentrate on his role as chairman of the New York Racing Association, a horse-racing club. The current President and COO of the CKI division within PVH are Tom Murry, who had filled this position already before the acquisition.[citation needed]

Upon the acquisition of Calvin Klein, Phillips-Van Heusen announced plans of launching a new men’s sportswear collection that rivals Ralph Lauren’s collection. This line is produced by Van Heusen.[18]

With the fall 2006 Collection runway presentations in New York City, CKI inaugurated an 8,600 sq ft (800 m2) showroom space that can seat up to 600 people on the ground floor of 205 West 39th Street, in Times Square South where Calvin Klein has been headquartered since 1978.[citation needed]

In a 2010 report, PVH, who manages the ready-to-wear activities, had estimated sales of €4.6 billion of Calvin Klein products.[19]

In February 2013, Warnaco Group was acquired by PVH which united Calvin Klein formal, underwear, jeans and sportswear lines.[20][21]

In 2020, PVH announced that as part of their animal welfare policy, the company does not use exotic skins and would be banning their use in Calvin Klein collections when «our annual update of that policy is released.»[22]

Product and brand history[edit]

A woman modeling in Calvin Klein sports bra and underwear

The most visible brand names in the Calvin Klein portfolio include:

  • Calvin Klein 205W39NYC (black label, upscale[19] top-end designer line)
  • ck Calvin Klein (grey label, recently repositioned as bridge collection line; licensed to Warnaco Group, Inc. through at least 2044.[19][23] PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013[20])
  • Calvin Klein (white label, basic fashion[19] better sportswear line)
  • Calvin Klein Sport (sports version of the white label line for Macy’s)
  • Calvin Klein Jeans (denimwear line; licensed to Warnaco Group through at least 2044.[23] PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013[20])
  • Calvin Klein Home (high end bedding, towel, bath rug and accessory collections)
  • The Khaki Collection (youthful medium to high end bedding, towel, bath rug and accessories) discontinued in 2008
  • Calvin Klein Golf (launched in late 2007)
  • Calvin Klein Underwear (underwear collections; licensed to Warnaco Group through at least 2044.[23] PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013[20])
  • CK one Lifestyle brand (fragrance, underwear, jeans -launched 2011)[24][25]
  • Calvin Klein Watches + Jewelry (watches launched in 1997, jewelry in 2004)

For details, see Current brands and licenses.

Fragrances[edit]

Calvin Klein has various lines of perfumes and colognes, including Obsession, CK Be, and Eternity. Until May 2005, their perfumes and the corresponding fragrance lines were maintained by Calvin Klein Cosmetics Company (CKCC), a Unilever company. Cosmetics giant Coty, Inc. of New York bought the fragrance licensing agreements from Unilever.

Advertising[edit]

The early ads were shot by Bruce Weber and Richard Avedon. One of his male underwear models, Mark Wahlberg, went on to fame as hip hop star «Marky Mark», launching himself into the Hollywood scene to become a current actor. Another Hollywood star first appearing in Calvin Klein advertisements is Antonio Sabàto Jr. Calvin Klein employed Kate Moss at the start of her career in the early 1990s and in 2002 after allegations of cocaine use. Other models who have appeared in advertisements early in their careers are Natalia Vodianova, and Toni Garrn. Currently Calvin Klein uses Shawn Mendes,[26] Tyson Ballou, Jennie and Lara Stone, and in the past has also used Christy Turlington, Jerry Hall, Patti Hansen, Tom Hintnaus, Travis Fimmel, Doutzen Kroes, Mini Andén, Garrett Neff, Sean O’Pry, Edita Vilkevičiūtė, Jamie Dornan, Liu Wen and Edward Furlong.[citation needed]

Actors such as Eva Mendes, Mehcad Brooks, Scarlett Johansson, Kellan Lutz, Andie MacDowell, Alexander Skarsgård, Zoe Saldana, Rita Ora, Rooney Mara, Lupita Nyong’o, Margot Robbie, Saoirse Ronan, Jake Gyllenhaal and Diane Kruger have also been chosen to model for the brand.[citation needed] Swedish footballer Freddie Ljungberg starred in a series of adverts for the company.[27] Recently,[when?] pop star Justin Bieber appeared in advertising for Calvin Klein’s underwear range,[28] as did fashion model Kendall Jenner. In 2017, Solange Knowles became the face of the campaign Our Music, #MYCALVINS.[29] On July 16, 2018, Saoirse Ronan and Lupita Nyong’o were announced as the faces of Raf Simons first fragrance for the brand, named Women.[30]
During summer 2020, the famous actor Ji Chang-wook was the first Korean mondial ambassador of the brand.[31]

They also have experimented with emerging technologies. When advertising cKOne perfume in 1999, they placed e-mail addresses in print advertisements, targeted at teenagers. When these teens mailed these addresses, they would be placed on a mailing list that sent them mails with vague details about the models’ lives, with fake details meant to make them more relatable. These mails came at unpredictable intervals and were supposed to give readers the feeling that they had some connection with these characters. Though the mailing lists were discontinued in 2002, the campaign has inspired similar marketing tactics for movies and other retail products. In 2019, Calvin Klein featured an ad by Sarah Rae Vargas for plus-sized women.[citation needed] In 2020, Calvin Klein invited black trans model Jari Jones and other eight LGBTQ models featured its pride campaign #PROUDINMYCALVINS.[32]

Branding[edit]

Like other fashion brands, Calvin Klein established a monogram: the «ck» emblem.[33]

Licensees[edit]

As of 2012, the top three licensees were:

  • Warnaco Group – 40% of license royalties, which is «around $100 million»[19]
  • Coty – 12% of license royalties[19]
  • G-III Apparel Group – 14% of license royalties[19]

Internet[edit]

In 2004, the company bought the domain name CK.com. Calvin Klein is one of the few corporations worldwide to own a two letter domain name.[citation needed]

Designers[edit]

When Calvin Klein was acquired by PVH Corp. in 2003, Francisco Costa was appointed the Women’s Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection. Costa had already worked with Klein directly before the founder’s departure from the company, and had taken the director position in 2003.[34]

Italo Zucchelli, a former Jil Sander and Romeo Gigli designer, had collaborated with Calvin Klein for six seasons before he became head designer and Men’s Creative Director of the Calvin Klein Collection menswear line in spring 2004.[35]

Kevin Carrigan, an Englishman, was named the global creative director of the ck Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein (white label), Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear brands and their related licensed products. Carrigan had been with Calvin Klein since 1998.

In April 2016, it was announced that Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli would be leaving the company.[35]

In August 2016, Calvin Klein, Inc. announced the appointment of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer of the brand, overseeing all aspects of design, global market and communications, and visual creative services. Simons assumed the creative strategy of the Calvin Klein brand globally across the company’s ready to wear, bridge, sportswear, jeans, underwear and home lines. Pieter Mulier was also announced as Creative Director, reporting directly to Simons and responsible for executing his creative and design vision for men’s and women’s ready to wear, bridge and better apparel and accessories. It was also announced that Kevin Carrigan resigned from the company for a creative role at Ralph Lauren.[36] Simons’s first collections debuted for the Fall 2017 season.[37]

In December 2016, it was announced that Amy Mellen would leave the company.[38]

In January 2017, it was announced that Clémande Burgevin Blachman would assume the role of Vice President of Design for Calvin Klein Home.[39]

In December 2018, it was announced that Raf Simons had parted from Calvin Klein after only two years at the company.[40]

In November 2020, Jessica Lomax was appointed Global Head of Design, leading Calvin Klein’s global design strategy and providing creative direction across all areas of the business.[41]

Corporate[edit]

Stores[edit]

  • Calvin Klein Collection

In the late 1990s, the company opened elegant Calvin Klein Collection stores in Paris, Seoul, and Taipei and ultra high-end cK Calvin Klein stores in Hong Kong, Milan, and Kuwait City. As of today, all stores are closed. Out of the two Calvin Klein Collection stores that existed in the US, the Dallas location in Highland Park Village which had been open for 20 years was closed in mid-2005. The only international location, in Paris, was closed by PVH in March 2006. The New York store, which serves as the company’s flagship store at 654 Madison Ave., permanently closed in spring 2019.[42] Partners maintain Calvin Klein Collection stores in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Mumbai, Seoul, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Dubai, and Qatar.

  • Calvin Klein (white label)

Specialty retail Calvin Klein stores, designed by New York architecture firm Lynch/Eisinger/Design have been opened at Lenox Square in Atlanta, Beverly Center in Los Angeles; now closed down, Cherry Creek Mall in Denver; now closed down, Natick Collection in Natick, MA; closing down on July 25, 2010, The Mall at Partridge Creek in Michigan; now closed down, Aventura Mall in Aventura, Florida, South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa California. An additional eight stores also designed by Lynch/Eisinger/Design are set to open in 2008. There are also several Calvin Klein Outlet stores, mostly located within factory outlet malls in the US, that sell the white label sportswear and sometimes the Calvin Klein white label at reduced prices but do not carry the Collection lines.

  • Calvin Klein Jeans

Calvin Klein Jeans stores exist around the globe. Among many other countries in the UK, Germany, Greece, Russia, Brazil, México, Croatia, Egypt, Chile, Argentina, India, the Philippines, Australia and New Zealand. They also offer franchisee and opened in Cali last year.[citation needed]

  • Calvin Klein Underwear

Signature Calvin Klein Underwear boutiques can be found in Ljubljana, Buenos Aires, Cardiff (as of April 2011), Mexico City, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Melbourne, Hong Kong, London, Manchester, Manila, New York City, Shanghai, Singapore, Frankfurt am Main, Munich, Toronto, Hatfield, and Burnaby, B.C. (Metro Vancouver).

  • Department Stores

The major department stores in the US, including Macy’s, Lord & Taylor, Dillard’s, and Nordstrom, as well as many small independent stores carry the ck, white label and/or Jeans collections. Some high-end department stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus also carry the Calvin Klein Collection. Notable retailers in the UK offering Calvin Klein include stores such as John Lewis, Debenhams and KJ Beckett. In Australia, the dominant retailer is Myer. Calvin Klein products are also found online with particular internet focus on selling Calvin Klein underwear and fragrance.

  • Europe and Asia

In Europe, Calvin Klein is predominantly known for its underwear, accessories and perhaps the Collection business, rather than for the medium-priced sportswear lines which are available at select high-end retail stores. In Asia, there are also signature ck Calvin Klein stores that carry diffusion line, aka grey label including womenswear, menswear, accessories.

Controversies[edit]

In 1980, Richard Avedon photographed and directed a Calvin Klein Jeans campaign that featured a fifteen-year-old Brooke Shields. Some of those advertisements were banned, including an infamous advert where Brooke asks, «Do you want to know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing!,» often misquoted as «Nothing comes between me and my Calvins.»[citation needed]

The 1995 adverts promoting Calvin Klein jeans received criticism for being «kiddie porn».[43][44][45][46]

In August 2012, Lululemon Athletica filed suit against Calvin Klein and supplier G-III Apparel Group for infringement of three Lululemon design patents for yoga pants.[47] The lawsuit was somewhat unusual as it involved a designer seeking to assert intellectual property protection in clothing through patent rights. On November 20, 2012, Lululemon filed a notice of voluntary dismissal in the Delaware courts based upon a private settlement agreement reached between the parties that would dismiss the suit.[48] According to a Lululemon press release, «Lululemon values its products and related IP rights and takes the necessary steps to protect its assets when we see attempts to mirror our products.”[49]

However, according to Chevalier’s brand book Luxury Brand Management, Klein «is seldom involved in the design and the development of products bearing his name»[19] and «all activities are subcontracted to licensees.»[19]

In 2014, Klein was criticized for the designation of Myla Dalbesio in its «Perfectly Fit» which offended many women as it is made for plus sizes.[50]

In 2020, the Australian Strategic Policy Institute accused at least 82 major brands, including Calvin Klein, of being connected to forced Uyghur labor in Xinjiang.[51]

See also[edit]

  • Sex in advertising
  • Bonds (clothing)
  • Gap Inc.
  • H&M
  • Zara (retailer)
  • Desigual

References[edit]

  1. ^ Lisa Marsh (2003). The House of Klein: Fashion, Controversy, and a Business Obsession. John Wiley & Sons. p. 1. ISBN 978-0-471-45563-9. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  2. ^ Smith, Ray A. (July 22, 2018). «Calvin Klein Tests Its Luxury Line’s Staying Power». Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved July 22, 2018.
  3. ^ «Calvin Klein unaccessorizes its desk jockeys». The Toronto Star. August 12, 2004.
  4. ^ «Calvin Klein Fashion — Designer Profile». Fashiondesign.org. Retrieved August 2, 2022.
  5. ^ «Calvin j». Citylife.com. Archived from the original on September 1, 2009. Retrieved January 28, 2010.
  6. ^ a b Grant, Linda (February 23, 1992). «Can Calvin Klein Escape? : He Built an Empire on Raunch and Elegance. Then, Overpriced Jeans and Junk-Bond Debt Pushed It to the Edge. But Look Out, Here Comes His Spring Collection». Los Angeles Times. Retrieved September 12, 2012.
  7. ^ MobileReference (2007). 100 Most Influential Jews of All Times (Mobi History). MobileReference. pp. 77–. ISBN 978-1-60501-125-7. Retrieved November 24, 2012.
  8. ^ a b c Valerie Steele (2010). The Berg Companion to Fashion. Berg. pp. 463–65. ISBN 978-1-84788-563-0. Retrieved November 24, 2012.
  9. ^ a b Manlow, Veronica (2009). Designing clothes : culture and organization of the fashion industry (1st pbk. ed.). New Brunswick, [N.J.]: Transaction Pub. p. 99. ISBN 9781412810555.
  10. ^ Lisa Marsh (2004). The House of Klein: Fashion, Controversy, and a Business Obsession. John Wiley & Sons. pp. 47–52. ISBN 978-0-471-47895-9. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  11. ^ a b c Gell, Aaron (September 1, 2010). «Rock Steady». Hemispheres. Archived from the original on April 4, 2016. Retrieved June 29, 2014.
  12. ^ Wilson, Eric (May 12, 2010). «Stretching a Six-Pack». The New York Times. Retrieved June 29, 2014.
  13. ^ Rozhon, Tracie (December 18, 2002). «Calvin Klein Selling His Company To Biggest Shirtmaker in the U.S.» New York Times. Retrieved January 13, 2009.
  14. ^ «Bruce J Klatsky, Gazal Corp Ltd: Profile and Biography». Bloomberg.com. Retrieved September 25, 2020.
  15. ^ Marsh, Lisa (December 18, 2002). «Phillips-Van Heusen Snags Calvin for $400M in Cash». New York Post. Retrieved September 12, 2012.
  16. ^ «Warnaco Group Emerges from Bankruptcy». New York Times. February 5, 2003. Retrieved September 12, 2012.
  17. ^ «Phillips-Van Heusen buttons up purchase of Calvin Klein». Agence France Presse. December 17, 2002.
  18. ^ Rozhon, Tracie (December 18, 2002). «Calvin Klein Selling His Company To Biggest Shirtmaker in the U.S.» The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved October 2, 2017.
  19. ^ a b c d e f g h i Chevalier, Michel (2012). Luxury Brand Management. Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN 978-1-118-17176-9.
  20. ^ a b c d «PVH unites Calvin Klein lines in $2.8 billion deal». Reuters.com. Thomson Reuters. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved October 31, 2012.
  21. ^ «PVH Corp». www.pvh.com.
  22. ^ Rosemary Feitelberg,»PVH Corp. Said to Agree to Stop Using Exotic Skins, After Appeals by PETA,» WWD, 10 September 2020.
  23. ^ a b c «WARNACO GROUP INC/ DE/ CIK#: 0000801351». United States Securities and Exchange Commission. Retrieved August 24, 2010.
  24. ^ Ella, Alexander (September 27, 2012). «Ck One Lifestyle». Vogue. Retrieved September 12, 2012.
  25. ^ «Calvin Klein fragrances». Household & Personal Products Industry. September 1, 2011.
  26. ^ Caulfield, Keith (February 18, 2019). «Shawn Mendes’ Calvin Klein Campaign Announcement Becomes His Most-Liked Instagram Post Ever». Billboard. Retrieved February 28, 2019.
  27. ^ «Between Them and Their Calvins». New York Times. May 13, 2010. Retrieved September 12, 2012.
  28. ^ «Justin Bieber bags Calvin Klein endorsement deal». news.biharprabha.com. IANS. July 25, 2014. Retrieved July 27, 2014.
  29. ^ «Solange Basically Casts Her Own Calvin Klein Campaign».
  30. ^ «Lupita Nyong’o and Saoirse Ronan Are the (Bare!) New Faces of Calvin Klein». Elle. Retrieved July 17, 2018.
  31. ^ «Ji Chang Wook Is 1st Korean Actor To Be Announced As Global Model For CK Calvin Klein». Soompi. January 22, 2020. Retrieved February 9, 2021.
  32. ^ Palumbo, Jacqui. «Black trans model Jari Jones fronts Calvin Klein’s Pride campaign». CNN. Retrieved August 11, 2020.
  33. ^ Johnson, Marylin (September 7, 2003). «Monograms: Initially Rated». The Atlanta Journal-Constitution.
  34. ^ Rubin, Sylvia (May 12, 2011). «Calvin Klein successor Francisco Costa». The San Francisco Chronicle.
  35. ^ a b Yotka, Steff (April 19, 2016). «Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli Are Leaving Calvin Klein». Vogue.
  36. ^ Lockwood, Lisa (August 4, 2016). «Kevin Carrigan Resigns at Calvin Klein». WWD. Retrieved February 14, 2019.
  37. ^ «Raf Simons Takes Over Calvin Klein». August 2, 2016. Retrieved August 2, 2016.
  38. ^ Schneier, Matthew (February 9, 2017). «Can Raf Simons Reinvent Calvin Klein?». The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved October 1, 2017.
  39. ^ Lockwood, Lisa (January 18, 2017). «Calvin Klein Home Names VP of Design». WWD. Retrieved October 1, 2017.
  40. ^ «Raf Simons Departs Calvin Klein». December 22, 2018.
  41. ^ «Calvin Klein, Inc. Appoints Jessica Lomax as Global Head of Design». Bloomberg.com. November 18, 2020.
  42. ^ «Calvin klein to close new york flagship featuring raf simons & sterling ruby makeover». January 11, 2019.
  43. ^ James Kaplan (1995). «The Triumph of Calvinism». New York Magazine. pp. 46–. ISSN 0028-7369. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  44. ^ Catherine Grant; Lori Waxman (2011). Girls! Girls! Girls! In Contemporary Art. Intellect Books. pp. 25–. ISBN 978-1-84150-348-6. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  45. ^ Paul Rutherford (2007). A World Made Sexy: Freud to Madonna. University of Toronto Press. pp. 204–. ISBN 978-0-8020-9466-7. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  46. ^ John Corvino (1999). Same Sex: Debating the Ethics, Science, and Culture of Homosexuality. Rowman & Littlefield. pp. 339–. ISBN 978-0-8476-8483-0. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  47. ^ Weller, Susan Neuberger (September 21, 2012). «S. 3523: Louboutin, Lululemon, and Fashion Design: Finally Getting Some Respect?». The National Law Review. Retrieved January 15, 2013.
  48. ^ Weller, Susan Neuberger; Mintz, Levin, Cohn, Ferris, Glovsky and Popeo, P.C. (November 27, 2012). «Lululemon and Calvin Klein Settle Yoga Pants Design Litigation». The National Law Review. Retrieved January 14, 2013.{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  49. ^ «lululemon athletica canada inc., calvin klein, inc. and g-iii apparel group, ltd. reached a settlement agreement in design patent litigation». November 20, 2012.
  50. ^ Swash, Rosie (November 10, 2014). «Calvin Klein ads featuring ‘plus size’ model Myla Dalbesio ignite online debate». The Guardian. Retrieved January 24, 2015.
  51. ^ Xu, Vicky Xiuzhong; Cave, Danielle; Leibold, James; Munro, Kelsey; Ruser, Nathan (March 1, 2020). «Uyghurs for sale». Australian Strategic Policy Institute.

External links[edit]

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  • Official website
Calvin Klein Inc.

CK Calvin Klein logo.svg
Type Subsidiary
Industry Apparel, perfume, fashion
Founded 1968; 55 years ago
Founders
  • Calvin Klein
  • Barry K. Schwartz
Headquarters

New York City

,

U.S.

Area served

Worldwide

Key people

  • Cheryl Abel-Hodges (CEO)
  • Gene Gosselin (CFO)
Products Apparel, perfume, undergarments, watches, etc.
Services Retailing

Number of employees

1001–5000 (2015)[citation needed]
Parent PVH (2002–present)
Website calvinklein.com

Calvin Klein Inc. () is an internationally operating, American fashion house. The company, which became famous for its designer underwear and denim lines in the 1980s, specializes in mass-market ready-to-wear clothing for all genders and age groups as well as leather products, lifestyle accessories and shoes, home furnishings, perfume/cosmetics, eyewear, jewellery and watches in the mid-price segment. Its high-end runway fashion division, which represented the top level of the various Calvin Klein sub-brands, was discontinued in 2019.

The company was founded by designer Calvin Klein and his childhood friend, Barry K. Schwartz, in 1968[1][2] and was acquired by PVH Corp. for a total of $700 million in 2003. It is headquartered in Midtown Manhattan, New York City,[3] and has substantial market share in retail and commercial lines around the globe. In 2013, PVH bought Warnaco Group, one of the largest Calvin Klein licensees, for around $3 billion. Global retail sales under the Calvin Klein brand, including sales by the label’s 40 licensees, amounted to $8.5 billion in 2021.

History[edit]

The early years[edit]

Calvin Klein was one of several design leaders raised in the Jewish community in the Bronx, along with Robert Denning and Ralph Lauren.[4] He became a protégé of Baron de Gunzburg,[5] through whose introductions he became the toast of the New York elite fashion scene even before he had his first mainstream success with the launch of his first jeans line. He was immediately recognized for his talent after his first major showing at New York Fashion Week.

In 1968, Klein founded Calvin Klein Limited, a coat shop in the York Hotel in New York City, with $10,000.[6][7] The first Calvin Klein collection was a line of «youthful, understated coats and dresses» featured at the New York City store Bonwit Teller.[6]

In September 1969, Klein appeared on the cover of Vogue magazine.[8]

1970s[edit]

By 1971, Klein had added sportswear, classic blazers, and lingerie to his women’s collection.[citation needed]

In 1973, he received his first Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for his 74-piece womenswear collection – the youngest recipient at that time.[8] Klein won the award again in 1974 and 1975.[8] By 1977, annual revenues had increased to $30 million (equivalent to $134 million in 2023), and Klein had licenses for scarves, shoes, belts, furs, sunglasses, and bedsheets. Klein and Schwartz were making $4 million each. After the company signed licenses for cosmetics, jeans, and menswear, Klein’s annual retail volume was estimated[by whom?] at $100 million (equivalent to $447 million in 2023). In 1978, Klein claimed sales of 200,000 pairs of his famous jeans the first week they were on the market. By 1981, Fortune figured Klein’s annual income at $8.5 million. In the mid-1970s, he had created a designer-jeans craze by putting his name on the back pocket. Klein’s design assistant at the time, Jeffrey Banks, has claimed credit for the logo garments, stating that he had the logo from a press folder silkscreened onto the sleeve of a brown T-shirt as a present for Klein.[9] The gift was assumed by Schwartz to be part of the upcoming line, and similar logo shirts formed the uniform for the front-of-house staff at Klein’s next catwalk show, leading to buyer demand.[9]

In the late 1970s, the company also made attempts to set up its own fragrance and cosmetics lines, but soon withdrew from the market with big financial losses.[citation needed]

1980s[edit]

In the 1980s, as the designer-jeans frenzy reached its all-time high, Calvin Klein introduced a highly successful line of boxer shorts for women and a men’s underwear collection which would later gross $70 million in a single year.[citation needed] The American market of men’s underwear was changed – from one where most men’s underwear was white, purchased in packs of three by a «wife, mother or girlfriend when they needed to be» to one where «the American male [cares] about the brand of something few ever see».[10]

Growth continued through the early eighties. The licensing program, which brought in $24,000 when it was initiated in 1974 (equivalent to $131,870 in 2021), had royalty income of $7.3 million ten years later (equivalent to $19.04 million in 2023). That year, worldwide retail sales were estimated at more than $60 million (equivalent to $1564.96 million in 2023). Klein’s clothes were sold through 12,000 stores in the United States and were available in six other countries through licensing deals, namely Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. His annual income passed $12 million (equivalent to $31.3 million in 2023).

Financial problems increased pressure from all sides, disagreements with the licensee of the menswear line and its disappointing sales as well as an enormous employee turnover both within Calvin Klein and its licensing partners led to the first rumors that Calvin Klein Industries, as the company had been known by then, was up for sale. And indeed, in late 1987, it was said[who?] that the sale of the company to Triangle Industries, a container manufacturer, had only failed because of the crashing stock market.

1990s[edit]

Although the company almost faced bankruptcy in 1992, Calvin Klein managed to regain and increase the profitability of his empire throughout the later 1990s, mainly through the success of its highly popular underwear and fragrance lines, as well as the ck sportswear line. During his 1990–1995 stint as Calvin Klein’s head of menswear design, John Varvatos pioneered a type of men’s underwear called boxer briefs, a hybrid of boxer shorts and briefs.[11] Made famous by a series of 1992 print ads featuring Mark «Marky Mark» Wahlberg,[11][12] they have been called «one of the greatest apparel revolutions of the century.»[11]

Klein was named «America’s Best Designer» for his minimalist all-American designs in 1993, and it came as a surprise in 1999 when it was announced that CKI was again up for sale. Planning to expand its business, the company had been approached by two luxury goods companies, LVMH and Pinault Printemps Redoute, to join Calvin Klein, but nothing resulted. Other potentials like Tommy Hilfiger Corp. and Italy’s Holding di Partecipazioni proved to be similar disappointments because of CKI’s steep price tag of supposedly $1 billion. After seven months and no potential buyer, Klein announced that his empire was not on the market anymore. The company would never manage to go public, which had supposedly been Klein’s plan once.

Former logo from 1975 to 2017

2002–present: Acquisition by Phillips van Heusen[edit]

In mid-December 2002, Calvin Klein Inc. (CKI) was sold to Phillips Van Heusen Corp (PVH),[13] whose then CEO Bruce Klatsky[14] was the driving force behind the deal, for about $400 million in cash, $30 million in stock as well as licensing rights and royalties linked to revenues over the following 15 years that were estimated at $200 to $300 million.[15] The sale also included an ongoing personal financial incentive for Klein based on future sales of the Calvin Klein brand.

PVH outbid VF Corp., the maker of Lee and Wrangler jeans, which had also been interested in the jeans, underwear and swimwear business of CK that had been controlled by Warnaco Group, maker of Speedo swimwear in the US, since 1997. The deal with PVH did not include these businesses, and they remained with Warnaco. Unable to pay debts from acquisitions and licensing agreements and due to bad publicity by a later dismissed lawsuit with Calvin Klein over selling license products to retailers other than agreed upon with Calvin Klein, Warnaco had filed for chapter 11 protection in mid-2001 but eventually emerged from bankruptcy in February 2003.[16]

The transaction between Calvin Klein and PVH was financially supported by Apax Partners Inc., a New York private equity firm, which is said to have made a $250 million equity investment in PVH convertible preferred stock, as well as a $125 million, two-year secured note, all in exchange for seats on the board of PVH.[17]

CKI thus became a wholly owned subsidiary of PVH. In the beginning, Klein himself, who was included as a person in the 15-year contract he had signed with PVH, remained creative head of the collections but then continued as an advisor (consulting creative director) to the new company from 2003 on and has since been more withdrawn from the business. Barry K. Schwartz was said to concentrate on his role as chairman of the New York Racing Association, a horse-racing club. The current President and COO of the CKI division within PVH are Tom Murry, who had filled this position already before the acquisition.[citation needed]

Upon the acquisition of Calvin Klein, Phillips-Van Heusen announced plans of launching a new men’s sportswear collection that rivals Ralph Lauren’s collection. This line is produced by Van Heusen.[18]

With the fall 2006 Collection runway presentations in New York City, CKI inaugurated an 8,600 sq ft (800 m2) showroom space that can seat up to 600 people on the ground floor of 205 West 39th Street, in Times Square South where Calvin Klein has been headquartered since 1978.[citation needed]

In a 2010 report, PVH, who manages the ready-to-wear activities, had estimated sales of €4.6 billion of Calvin Klein products.[19]

In February 2013, Warnaco Group was acquired by PVH which united Calvin Klein formal, underwear, jeans and sportswear lines.[20][21]

In 2020, PVH announced that as part of their animal welfare policy, the company does not use exotic skins and would be banning their use in Calvin Klein collections when «our annual update of that policy is released.»[22]

Product and brand history[edit]

A woman modeling in Calvin Klein sports bra and underwear

The most visible brand names in the Calvin Klein portfolio include:

  • Calvin Klein 205W39NYC (black label, upscale[19] top-end designer line)
  • ck Calvin Klein (grey label, recently repositioned as bridge collection line; licensed to Warnaco Group, Inc. through at least 2044.[19][23] PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013[20])
  • Calvin Klein (white label, basic fashion[19] better sportswear line)
  • Calvin Klein Sport (sports version of the white label line for Macy’s)
  • Calvin Klein Jeans (denimwear line; licensed to Warnaco Group through at least 2044.[23] PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013[20])
  • Calvin Klein Home (high end bedding, towel, bath rug and accessory collections)
  • The Khaki Collection (youthful medium to high end bedding, towel, bath rug and accessories) discontinued in 2008
  • Calvin Klein Golf (launched in late 2007)
  • Calvin Klein Underwear (underwear collections; licensed to Warnaco Group through at least 2044.[23] PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013[20])
  • CK one Lifestyle brand (fragrance, underwear, jeans -launched 2011)[24][25]
  • Calvin Klein Watches + Jewelry (watches launched in 1997, jewelry in 2004)

For details, see Current brands and licenses.

Fragrances[edit]

Calvin Klein has various lines of perfumes and colognes, including Obsession, CK Be, and Eternity. Until May 2005, their perfumes and the corresponding fragrance lines were maintained by Calvin Klein Cosmetics Company (CKCC), a Unilever company. Cosmetics giant Coty, Inc. of New York bought the fragrance licensing agreements from Unilever.

Advertising[edit]

The early ads were shot by Bruce Weber and Richard Avedon. One of his male underwear models, Mark Wahlberg, went on to fame as hip hop star «Marky Mark», launching himself into the Hollywood scene to become a current actor. Another Hollywood star first appearing in Calvin Klein advertisements is Antonio Sabàto Jr. Calvin Klein employed Kate Moss at the start of her career in the early 1990s and in 2002 after allegations of cocaine use. Other models who have appeared in advertisements early in their careers are Natalia Vodianova, and Toni Garrn. Currently Calvin Klein uses Shawn Mendes,[26] Tyson Ballou, Jennie and Lara Stone, and in the past has also used Christy Turlington, Jerry Hall, Patti Hansen, Tom Hintnaus, Travis Fimmel, Doutzen Kroes, Mini Andén, Garrett Neff, Sean O’Pry, Edita Vilkevičiūtė, Jamie Dornan, Liu Wen and Edward Furlong.[citation needed]

Actors such as Eva Mendes, Mehcad Brooks, Scarlett Johansson, Kellan Lutz, Andie MacDowell, Alexander Skarsgård, Zoe Saldana, Rita Ora, Rooney Mara, Lupita Nyong’o, Margot Robbie, Saoirse Ronan, Jake Gyllenhaal and Diane Kruger have also been chosen to model for the brand.[citation needed] Swedish footballer Freddie Ljungberg starred in a series of adverts for the company.[27] Recently,[when?] pop star Justin Bieber appeared in advertising for Calvin Klein’s underwear range,[28] as did fashion model Kendall Jenner. In 2017, Solange Knowles became the face of the campaign Our Music, #MYCALVINS.[29] On July 16, 2018, Saoirse Ronan and Lupita Nyong’o were announced as the faces of Raf Simons first fragrance for the brand, named Women.[30]
During summer 2020, the famous actor Ji Chang-wook was the first Korean mondial ambassador of the brand.[31]

They also have experimented with emerging technologies. When advertising cKOne perfume in 1999, they placed e-mail addresses in print advertisements, targeted at teenagers. When these teens mailed these addresses, they would be placed on a mailing list that sent them mails with vague details about the models’ lives, with fake details meant to make them more relatable. These mails came at unpredictable intervals and were supposed to give readers the feeling that they had some connection with these characters. Though the mailing lists were discontinued in 2002, the campaign has inspired similar marketing tactics for movies and other retail products. In 2019, Calvin Klein featured an ad by Sarah Rae Vargas for plus-sized women.[citation needed] In 2020, Calvin Klein invited black trans model Jari Jones and other eight LGBTQ models featured its pride campaign #PROUDINMYCALVINS.[32]

Branding[edit]

Like other fashion brands, Calvin Klein established a monogram: the «ck» emblem.[33]

Licensees[edit]

As of 2012, the top three licensees were:

  • Warnaco Group – 40% of license royalties, which is «around $100 million»[19]
  • Coty – 12% of license royalties[19]
  • G-III Apparel Group – 14% of license royalties[19]

Internet[edit]

In 2004, the company bought the domain name CK.com. Calvin Klein is one of the few corporations worldwide to own a two letter domain name.[citation needed]

Designers[edit]

When Calvin Klein was acquired by PVH Corp. in 2003, Francisco Costa was appointed the Women’s Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection. Costa had already worked with Klein directly before the founder’s departure from the company, and had taken the director position in 2003.[34]

Italo Zucchelli, a former Jil Sander and Romeo Gigli designer, had collaborated with Calvin Klein for six seasons before he became head designer and Men’s Creative Director of the Calvin Klein Collection menswear line in spring 2004.[35]

Kevin Carrigan, an Englishman, was named the global creative director of the ck Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein (white label), Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear brands and their related licensed products. Carrigan had been with Calvin Klein since 1998.

In April 2016, it was announced that Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli would be leaving the company.[35]

In August 2016, Calvin Klein, Inc. announced the appointment of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer of the brand, overseeing all aspects of design, global market and communications, and visual creative services. Simons assumed the creative strategy of the Calvin Klein brand globally across the company’s ready to wear, bridge, sportswear, jeans, underwear and home lines. Pieter Mulier was also announced as Creative Director, reporting directly to Simons and responsible for executing his creative and design vision for men’s and women’s ready to wear, bridge and better apparel and accessories. It was also announced that Kevin Carrigan resigned from the company for a creative role at Ralph Lauren.[36] Simons’s first collections debuted for the Fall 2017 season.[37]

In December 2016, it was announced that Amy Mellen would leave the company.[38]

In January 2017, it was announced that Clémande Burgevin Blachman would assume the role of Vice President of Design for Calvin Klein Home.[39]

In December 2018, it was announced that Raf Simons had parted from Calvin Klein after only two years at the company.[40]

In November 2020, Jessica Lomax was appointed Global Head of Design, leading Calvin Klein’s global design strategy and providing creative direction across all areas of the business.[41]

Corporate[edit]

Stores[edit]

  • Calvin Klein Collection

In the late 1990s, the company opened elegant Calvin Klein Collection stores in Paris, Seoul, and Taipei and ultra high-end cK Calvin Klein stores in Hong Kong, Milan, and Kuwait City. As of today, all stores are closed. Out of the two Calvin Klein Collection stores that existed in the US, the Dallas location in Highland Park Village which had been open for 20 years was closed in mid-2005. The only international location, in Paris, was closed by PVH in March 2006. The New York store, which serves as the company’s flagship store at 654 Madison Ave., permanently closed in spring 2019.[42] Partners maintain Calvin Klein Collection stores in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Mumbai, Seoul, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Dubai, and Qatar.

  • Calvin Klein (white label)

Specialty retail Calvin Klein stores, designed by New York architecture firm Lynch/Eisinger/Design have been opened at Lenox Square in Atlanta, Beverly Center in Los Angeles; now closed down, Cherry Creek Mall in Denver; now closed down, Natick Collection in Natick, MA; closing down on July 25, 2010, The Mall at Partridge Creek in Michigan; now closed down, Aventura Mall in Aventura, Florida, South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa California. An additional eight stores also designed by Lynch/Eisinger/Design are set to open in 2008. There are also several Calvin Klein Outlet stores, mostly located within factory outlet malls in the US, that sell the white label sportswear and sometimes the Calvin Klein white label at reduced prices but do not carry the Collection lines.

  • Calvin Klein Jeans

Calvin Klein Jeans stores exist around the globe. Among many other countries in the UK, Germany, Greece, Russia, Brazil, México, Croatia, Egypt, Chile, Argentina, India, the Philippines, Australia and New Zealand. They also offer franchisee and opened in Cali last year.[citation needed]

  • Calvin Klein Underwear

Signature Calvin Klein Underwear boutiques can be found in Ljubljana, Buenos Aires, Cardiff (as of April 2011), Mexico City, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Melbourne, Hong Kong, London, Manchester, Manila, New York City, Shanghai, Singapore, Frankfurt am Main, Munich, Toronto, Hatfield, and Burnaby, B.C. (Metro Vancouver).

  • Department Stores

The major department stores in the US, including Macy’s, Lord & Taylor, Dillard’s, and Nordstrom, as well as many small independent stores carry the ck, white label and/or Jeans collections. Some high-end department stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus also carry the Calvin Klein Collection. Notable retailers in the UK offering Calvin Klein include stores such as John Lewis, Debenhams and KJ Beckett. In Australia, the dominant retailer is Myer. Calvin Klein products are also found online with particular internet focus on selling Calvin Klein underwear and fragrance.

  • Europe and Asia

In Europe, Calvin Klein is predominantly known for its underwear, accessories and perhaps the Collection business, rather than for the medium-priced sportswear lines which are available at select high-end retail stores. In Asia, there are also signature ck Calvin Klein stores that carry diffusion line, aka grey label including womenswear, menswear, accessories.

Controversies[edit]

In 1980, Richard Avedon photographed and directed a Calvin Klein Jeans campaign that featured a fifteen-year-old Brooke Shields. Some of those advertisements were banned, including an infamous advert where Brooke asks, «Do you want to know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing!,» often misquoted as «Nothing comes between me and my Calvins.»[citation needed]

The 1995 adverts promoting Calvin Klein jeans received criticism for being «kiddie porn».[43][44][45][46]

In August 2012, Lululemon Athletica filed suit against Calvin Klein and supplier G-III Apparel Group for infringement of three Lululemon design patents for yoga pants.[47] The lawsuit was somewhat unusual as it involved a designer seeking to assert intellectual property protection in clothing through patent rights. On November 20, 2012, Lululemon filed a notice of voluntary dismissal in the Delaware courts based upon a private settlement agreement reached between the parties that would dismiss the suit.[48] According to a Lululemon press release, «Lululemon values its products and related IP rights and takes the necessary steps to protect its assets when we see attempts to mirror our products.”[49]

However, according to Chevalier’s brand book Luxury Brand Management, Klein «is seldom involved in the design and the development of products bearing his name»[19] and «all activities are subcontracted to licensees.»[19]

In 2014, Klein was criticized for the designation of Myla Dalbesio in its «Perfectly Fit» which offended many women as it is made for plus sizes.[50]

In 2020, the Australian Strategic Policy Institute accused at least 82 major brands, including Calvin Klein, of being connected to forced Uyghur labor in Xinjiang.[51]

See also[edit]

  • Sex in advertising
  • Bonds (clothing)
  • Gap Inc.
  • H&M
  • Zara (retailer)
  • Desigual

References[edit]

  1. ^ Lisa Marsh (2003). The House of Klein: Fashion, Controversy, and a Business Obsession. John Wiley & Sons. p. 1. ISBN 978-0-471-45563-9. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  2. ^ Smith, Ray A. (July 22, 2018). «Calvin Klein Tests Its Luxury Line’s Staying Power». Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved July 22, 2018.
  3. ^ «Calvin Klein unaccessorizes its desk jockeys». The Toronto Star. August 12, 2004.
  4. ^ «Calvin Klein Fashion — Designer Profile». Fashiondesign.org. Retrieved August 2, 2022.
  5. ^ «Calvin j». Citylife.com. Archived from the original on September 1, 2009. Retrieved January 28, 2010.
  6. ^ a b Grant, Linda (February 23, 1992). «Can Calvin Klein Escape? : He Built an Empire on Raunch and Elegance. Then, Overpriced Jeans and Junk-Bond Debt Pushed It to the Edge. But Look Out, Here Comes His Spring Collection». Los Angeles Times. Retrieved September 12, 2012.
  7. ^ MobileReference (2007). 100 Most Influential Jews of All Times (Mobi History). MobileReference. pp. 77–. ISBN 978-1-60501-125-7. Retrieved November 24, 2012.
  8. ^ a b c Valerie Steele (2010). The Berg Companion to Fashion. Berg. pp. 463–65. ISBN 978-1-84788-563-0. Retrieved November 24, 2012.
  9. ^ a b Manlow, Veronica (2009). Designing clothes : culture and organization of the fashion industry (1st pbk. ed.). New Brunswick, [N.J.]: Transaction Pub. p. 99. ISBN 9781412810555.
  10. ^ Lisa Marsh (2004). The House of Klein: Fashion, Controversy, and a Business Obsession. John Wiley & Sons. pp. 47–52. ISBN 978-0-471-47895-9. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  11. ^ a b c Gell, Aaron (September 1, 2010). «Rock Steady». Hemispheres. Archived from the original on April 4, 2016. Retrieved June 29, 2014.
  12. ^ Wilson, Eric (May 12, 2010). «Stretching a Six-Pack». The New York Times. Retrieved June 29, 2014.
  13. ^ Rozhon, Tracie (December 18, 2002). «Calvin Klein Selling His Company To Biggest Shirtmaker in the U.S.» New York Times. Retrieved January 13, 2009.
  14. ^ «Bruce J Klatsky, Gazal Corp Ltd: Profile and Biography». Bloomberg.com. Retrieved September 25, 2020.
  15. ^ Marsh, Lisa (December 18, 2002). «Phillips-Van Heusen Snags Calvin for $400M in Cash». New York Post. Retrieved September 12, 2012.
  16. ^ «Warnaco Group Emerges from Bankruptcy». New York Times. February 5, 2003. Retrieved September 12, 2012.
  17. ^ «Phillips-Van Heusen buttons up purchase of Calvin Klein». Agence France Presse. December 17, 2002.
  18. ^ Rozhon, Tracie (December 18, 2002). «Calvin Klein Selling His Company To Biggest Shirtmaker in the U.S.» The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved October 2, 2017.
  19. ^ a b c d e f g h i Chevalier, Michel (2012). Luxury Brand Management. Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN 978-1-118-17176-9.
  20. ^ a b c d «PVH unites Calvin Klein lines in $2.8 billion deal». Reuters.com. Thomson Reuters. Archived from the original on September 24, 2015. Retrieved October 31, 2012.
  21. ^ «PVH Corp». www.pvh.com.
  22. ^ Rosemary Feitelberg,»PVH Corp. Said to Agree to Stop Using Exotic Skins, After Appeals by PETA,» WWD, 10 September 2020.
  23. ^ a b c «WARNACO GROUP INC/ DE/ CIK#: 0000801351». United States Securities and Exchange Commission. Retrieved August 24, 2010.
  24. ^ Ella, Alexander (September 27, 2012). «Ck One Lifestyle». Vogue. Retrieved September 12, 2012.
  25. ^ «Calvin Klein fragrances». Household & Personal Products Industry. September 1, 2011.
  26. ^ Caulfield, Keith (February 18, 2019). «Shawn Mendes’ Calvin Klein Campaign Announcement Becomes His Most-Liked Instagram Post Ever». Billboard. Retrieved February 28, 2019.
  27. ^ «Between Them and Their Calvins». New York Times. May 13, 2010. Retrieved September 12, 2012.
  28. ^ «Justin Bieber bags Calvin Klein endorsement deal». news.biharprabha.com. IANS. July 25, 2014. Retrieved July 27, 2014.
  29. ^ «Solange Basically Casts Her Own Calvin Klein Campaign».
  30. ^ «Lupita Nyong’o and Saoirse Ronan Are the (Bare!) New Faces of Calvin Klein». Elle. Retrieved July 17, 2018.
  31. ^ «Ji Chang Wook Is 1st Korean Actor To Be Announced As Global Model For CK Calvin Klein». Soompi. January 22, 2020. Retrieved February 9, 2021.
  32. ^ Palumbo, Jacqui. «Black trans model Jari Jones fronts Calvin Klein’s Pride campaign». CNN. Retrieved August 11, 2020.
  33. ^ Johnson, Marylin (September 7, 2003). «Monograms: Initially Rated». The Atlanta Journal-Constitution.
  34. ^ Rubin, Sylvia (May 12, 2011). «Calvin Klein successor Francisco Costa». The San Francisco Chronicle.
  35. ^ a b Yotka, Steff (April 19, 2016). «Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli Are Leaving Calvin Klein». Vogue.
  36. ^ Lockwood, Lisa (August 4, 2016). «Kevin Carrigan Resigns at Calvin Klein». WWD. Retrieved February 14, 2019.
  37. ^ «Raf Simons Takes Over Calvin Klein». August 2, 2016. Retrieved August 2, 2016.
  38. ^ Schneier, Matthew (February 9, 2017). «Can Raf Simons Reinvent Calvin Klein?». The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved October 1, 2017.
  39. ^ Lockwood, Lisa (January 18, 2017). «Calvin Klein Home Names VP of Design». WWD. Retrieved October 1, 2017.
  40. ^ «Raf Simons Departs Calvin Klein». December 22, 2018.
  41. ^ «Calvin Klein, Inc. Appoints Jessica Lomax as Global Head of Design». Bloomberg.com. November 18, 2020.
  42. ^ «Calvin klein to close new york flagship featuring raf simons & sterling ruby makeover». January 11, 2019.
  43. ^ James Kaplan (1995). «The Triumph of Calvinism». New York Magazine. pp. 46–. ISSN 0028-7369. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  44. ^ Catherine Grant; Lori Waxman (2011). Girls! Girls! Girls! In Contemporary Art. Intellect Books. pp. 25–. ISBN 978-1-84150-348-6. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  45. ^ Paul Rutherford (2007). A World Made Sexy: Freud to Madonna. University of Toronto Press. pp. 204–. ISBN 978-0-8020-9466-7. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  46. ^ John Corvino (1999). Same Sex: Debating the Ethics, Science, and Culture of Homosexuality. Rowman & Littlefield. pp. 339–. ISBN 978-0-8476-8483-0. Retrieved October 27, 2012.
  47. ^ Weller, Susan Neuberger (September 21, 2012). «S. 3523: Louboutin, Lululemon, and Fashion Design: Finally Getting Some Respect?». The National Law Review. Retrieved January 15, 2013.
  48. ^ Weller, Susan Neuberger; Mintz, Levin, Cohn, Ferris, Glovsky and Popeo, P.C. (November 27, 2012). «Lululemon and Calvin Klein Settle Yoga Pants Design Litigation». The National Law Review. Retrieved January 14, 2013.{{cite news}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  49. ^ «lululemon athletica canada inc., calvin klein, inc. and g-iii apparel group, ltd. reached a settlement agreement in design patent litigation». November 20, 2012.
  50. ^ Swash, Rosie (November 10, 2014). «Calvin Klein ads featuring ‘plus size’ model Myla Dalbesio ignite online debate». The Guardian. Retrieved January 24, 2015.
  51. ^ Xu, Vicky Xiuzhong; Cave, Danielle; Leibold, James; Munro, Kelsey; Ruser, Nathan (March 1, 2020). «Uyghurs for sale». Australian Strategic Policy Institute.

External links[edit]

Spoken Wikipedia icon

This audio file was created from a revision of this article dated 3 March 2020, and does not reflect subsequent edits.

  • Official website

Calvin Klein Inc. (/klaɪn/) is an American fashion house established in 1968. It specializes in leather, lifestyle accessories, home furnishings, perfumery, jewellery, watches and ready-to-wear. The company has substantial market share in retail and commercial lines as well haute couture garments.

The company was founded by designer Calvin Klein and his childhood friend, Barry K. Schwartz. The company is headquartered in Midtown Manhattan, New York City.

History[]

The early years[]

In 1968, Calvin Klein founded Calvin Klein Limited, a coat shop in the York Hotel in New York City, with $10,000. The first Calvin Klein collection was a line of «youthful, understated coats and dresses» featured at the New York City store Bonwit Teller.

In September 1969, Klein appeared on the cover of Vogue magazine.

1970s[]

By 1971, Klein had added sportswear, classic blazers, and lingerie to his women’s collection.

In 1973, he received his first Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for his 74-piece womenswear collection — the youngest recipient at that time. Klein won the award again in 1974 and 1975. By 1977, annual revenues had increased to $30 million (equivalent to $127 million in 2020), and Klein had licenses for scarves, shoes, belts, furs, sunglasses, and bedsheets . Klein and Schwartz were making $4 million each. After the company signed licenses for cosmetics, jeans, and menswear, Klein’s annual retail volume was estimated at $100 million (equivalent to $422 million in 2020). In 1978, Klein claimed sales of 200,000 pairs of his famous jeans the first week they were on the market. By 1981, Fortune figured Klein’s annual income at $8.5 million. In the mid-1970s, he had created a designer-jeans craze by putting his name on the back pocket. Klein’s design assistant at the time, Jeffrey Banks, has claimed credit for the logo garments, stating that he had the logo from a press folder silkscreened onto the sleeve of a brown T-shirt as a present for Klein. The gift was assumed by Schwartz to be part of the upcoming line, and similar logo shirts formed the uniform for the front-of-house staff at Klein’s next catwalk show, leading to buyer demand.

In the late 1970s, the company also made attempts to set up its own fragrance and cosmetics lines, but soon withdrew from the market with big financial losses.

1980s[]

In the 1980s, as the designer-jeans frenzy reached its all-time high, Calvin Klein introduced a highly successful line of boxer shorts for women and a men’s underwear collection which would later gross $70 million in a single year. The American market of men’s underwear was changed – from one where most men’s underwear was white, purchased in packs of three by a «wife, mother or girlfriend when they needed to be» to one where «the American male [cares] about the brand of something few ever see».

Growth continued through the early eighties. The licensing program, which brought in $24,000 when it was initiated in 1974 (equivalent to $124,421 in 2019), had royalty income of $7.3 million ten years later (equivalent to $17.96 million in 2020). That year, worldwide retail sales were estimated at more than $600 million (equivalent to $1476.55 million in 2020). Klein’s clothes were sold through 12,000 stores in the United States and were available in six other countries through licensing deals, namely Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. His annual income passed $12 million (equivalent to $29.53 million in 2020).

Financial problems increased pressure from all sides, disagreements with the licensee of the menswear line and its disappointing sales as well as an enormous employee turnover both within Calvin Klein and its licensing partners led to the first rumors that Calvin Klein Industries, as the company had been known by then, was up for sale. And indeed, in late 1987, it was said that the sale of the company to Triangle Industries, a container manufacturer, had only failed because of the crashing stock market.

1990s[]

Although the company almost faced bankruptcy in 1992, Calvin Klein managed to regain and increase the profitability of his empire throughout the later 1990s, mainly through the success of its highly popular underwear and fragrance lines, as well as the ck sportswear line. During his 1990-1995 stint as Calvin Klein’s head of menswear design, John Varvatos pioneered a type of men’s underwear called boxer briefs, a hybrid of boxer shorts and briefs. Made famous by a series of 1992 print ads featuring Mark «Marky Mark» Wahlberg, they have been called «one of the greatest apparel revolutions of the century.»

Klein was named «America’s Best Designer» for his minimalist all-American designs in 1993, and it came as a surprise in 1999 when it was announced that CKI was again up for sale. Planning to expand its business, the company had been approached by two luxury goods companies, LVMH and Pinault Printemps Redoute, to join Calvin Klein, but nothing resulted. Other potentials like Tommy Hilfiger Corp. and Italy’s Holding di Partecipazioni proved to be similar disappointments because of CKI’s steep price tag of supposedly $1 billion. After seven months and no potential buyer, Klein announced that his empire was not on the market anymore. The company would never manage to go public, which had supposedly been Klein’s plan once.
Former logo from 1975 to 2017

2002–present: Acquisition by Phillips van Heusen[]

In mid-December 2002, Calvin Klein Inc. (CKI) was sold to Phillips Van Heusen Corp (PVH), whose then CEO Bruce Klatsky was the driving force behind the deal, for about $400 million in cash, $30 million in stock as well as licensing rights and royalties linked to revenues over the following 15 years that were estimated at $200 to $300 million. The sale also included an ongoing personal financial incentive for Klein based on future sales of the Calvin Klein brand.

PVH outbid VF Corp., the maker of Lee and Wrangler jeans, which had also been interested in the jeans, underwear and swimwear business of CK that had been controlled by Warnaco Group, maker of Speedo swimwear in the US, since 1997. The deal with PVH did not include these businesses, and they remained with Warnaco. Unable to pay debts from acquisitions and licensing agreements and due to bad publicity by a later dismissed lawsuit with Calvin Klein over selling license products to retailers other than agreed upon with Calvin Klein, Warnaco had filed for chapter 11 protection in mid-2001 but eventually emerged from bankruptcy in February 2003.

The transaction between Calvin Klein and PVH was financially supported by Apax Partners Inc., a New York private equity firm, which is said to have made a $250 million equity investment in PVH convertible preferred stock, as well as a $125 million, two-year secured note, all in exchange for seats on the board of PVH.

CKI thus became a wholly owned subsidiary of PVH. In the beginning, Klein himself, who was included as a person in the 15-year contract he had signed with PVH, remained creative head of the collections but then continued as an advisor (consulting creative director) to the new company from 2003 on and has since been more withdrawn from the business. Barry K. Schwartz was said to concentrate on his role as chairman of the New York Racing Association, a horse-racing club. The current President and COO of the CKI division within PVH are Tom Murry, who had filled this position already before the acquisition.

Upon the acquisition of Calvin Klein, Phillips-Van Heusen announced plans of launching a new men’s sportswear collection that rivals Ralph Lauren’s collection. This line is produced by Van Heusen.

With the fall 2006 Collection runway presentations in New York City, CKI inaugurated an 8,600 sq ft (800 m2) showroom space that can seat up to 600 people on the ground floor of 205 West 39th Street, in Times Square South where Calvin Klein has been headquartered since 1978.

In a 2010 report, PVH, who manages the ready-to-wear activities, had estimated sales of €4.6 billion of Calvin Klein products.

In February 2013, Warnaco Group was acquired by PVH which united Calvin Klein formal, underwear, jeans and sportswear lines.

In 2020, PVH announced that as part of their animal welfare policy, the company does not use exotic skins and would be banning their use in Calvin Klein collections when «our annual update of that policy is released.»

Product and brand history[]

The most visible brand names in the Calvin Klein portfolio include:

  • Calvin Klein 205W39NYC (black label, upscale top-end designer line)
  • ck Calvin Klein (grey label, recently repositioned as bridge collection line; licensed to Warnaco Group, Inc. through at least 2044. PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013)
  • Calvin Klein (white label, basic fashion better sportswear line)
  • Calvin Klein Sport (sports version of the white label line for Macy’s)
  • Calvin Klein Jeans (denimwear line; licensed to Warnaco Group through at least 2044. PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013)
  • Calvin Klein Home (high end bedding, towel, bath rug and accessory collections)
  • The Khaki Collection (youthful medium to high end bedding, towel, bath rug and accessories) discontinued in 2008
  • Calvin Klein Golf (launched in late 2007)
  • Calvin Klein Underwear (underwear collections; licensed to Warnaco Group through at least 2044. PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013)
  • CK one Lifestyle brand (fragrance, underwear, jeans -launched 2011)
  • Calvin Klein Watches + Jewelry (watches launched in 1997, jewelry in 2004)

Fragrances[]

Calvin Klein has various lines of perfumes and colognes, including Obsession, CK Be, and Eternity. Until May 2005, their perfumes and the corresponding fragrance lines were maintained by Calvin Klein Cosmetics Company (CKCC), a Unilever company. Cosmetics giant Coty, Inc. of New York bought the fragrance licensing agreements from Unilever.

Advertising[]

The early ads were shot by Bruce Weber and Richard Avedon. One of his male underwear models, Mark Wahlberg, went on to fame as hip hop star «Marky Mark», launching himself into the Hollywood scene to become a current actor. Another Hollywood star first appearing in Calvin Klein advertisements is Antonio Sabato Jr.. Calvin Klein employed Kate Moss at the start of her career in the early 1990s and in 2002 after allegations of cocaine use. Other models who have appeared in advertisements early in their careers are Natalia Vodianova, and Toni Garrn. Currently Calvin Klein uses Shawn Mendes, Tyson Ballou and Lara Stone, and in the past has also used Christy Turlington, Jerry Hall, Patti Hansen, Tom Hintnaus, Travis Fimmel, Doutzen Kroes, Mini Anden, Garrett Neff, Sean O’Pry, Edita Vilkeviciute, Jamie Dornan, Liu Wen and Edward Furlong.

Actors such as Eva Mendes, Mehcad Brooks, Scarlett Johansson, Kellan Lutz, Andie MacDowell, Alexander Skarsgard, Zoe Saldana, Rita Ora, Rooney Mara, Lupita Nyong’o, Margot Robbie, Saoirse Ronan, Jake Gyllenhaal and Diane Kruger have also been chosen to model for the brand. Swedish footballer Freddie Ljungberg starred in a series of adverts for the company. Recently, singer Justin Bieber appeared in advertising for Calvin Klein’s underwear range, as did fashion model Kendall Jenner. In 2017 Solange Knowles became the face of the campaign Our Music, #MYCALVINS. On July 16, 2018, Saoirse Ronan and Lupita Nyong’o were announced as the faces of Raf Simons first fragrance for the brand, named Women. They also have experimented with emerging technologies. When advertising cKOne perfume in 1999, they placed e-mail addresses in print advertisements, targeted at teenagers. When these teens mailed these addresses, they would be placed on a mailing list that sent them mails with vague details about the models’ lives, with fake details meant to make them more relatable. These mails came at unpredictable intervals and were supposed to give readers the feeling that they had some connection with these characters. Though the mailing lists were discontinued in 2002, the campaign has inspired similar marketing tactics for movies and other retail products. In 2019, Calvin Klein featured an ad by Sarah Rae Vargas for plus-sized women. In 2020, Calvin Klein invited black trans model Jari Jones and other eight LGBTQ models featured its pride campaign #PROUDINMYCALVINS.

Branding[]

Like other fashion brands, Calvin Klein established a monogram: the «ck» emblem.

Licensees[]

As of 2012, the top three licensees were:

  • Warnaco Group — 40% of license royalties, which is «around $100 million»
  • Coty — 12% of license royalties
  • G-III Apparel Group — 14% of license royalties

Internet[]

In 2004, the company bought the domain name CK.com. Calvin Klein is one of the few corporations worldwide to own a two letter domain name.

Designers[]

When Calvin Klein was acquired by PVH Corp. in 2003, Francisco Costa was appointed the Women’s Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection. Costa had already worked with Klein directly before the founder’s departure from the company, and had taken the director position in 2003.

Italo Zucchelli, a former Jil Sander and Romeo Gigli designer, had collaborated with Calvin Klein for six seasons before he became head designer and Men’s Creative Director of the Calvin Klein Collection menswear line in spring 2004.

Kevin Carrigan, an Englishman, was named the global creative director of the ck Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein (white label), Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear brands and their related licensed products. Carrigan had been with Calvin Klein since 1998.

In April 2016, it was announced that Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli would be leaving the company.

In August 2016, Calvin Klein, Inc. announced the appointment of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer of the brand, overseeing all aspects of design, global market and communications, and visual creative services. Simons assumed the creative strategy of the Calvin Klein brand globally across the company’s ready to wear, bridge, sportswear, jeans, underwear and home lines. Pieter Mulier was also announced as Creative Director, reporting directly to Simons and responsible for executing his creative and design vision for men’s and women’s ready to wear, bridge and better apparel and accessories. It was also announced that Kevin Carrigan resigned from the company for a creative role at Ralph Lauren. Simons’s first collections debuted for the Fall 2017 season.

In December 2016, it was announced that Amy Mellen would leave the company.

In January 2017, it was announced that Clémande Burgevin Blachman would assume the role of Vice President of Design for Calvin Klein Home.

In December 2018, it was announced that Raf Simons had parted from Calvin Klein after only two years at the company.

Corporate[]

Stores[]

  • Calvin Klein Collection

In the late 1990s, the company opened elegant Calvin Klein Collection stores in Paris, Seoul, and Taipei and ultra high-end cK Calvin Klein stores in Hong Kong, Milan, and Kuwait City. As of today, there is only one Calvin Klein Collection store operated by CKI. It is located in New York City. Out of the two Calvin Klein Collection stores that existed in the US, the Dallas location in Highland Park Village which had been open for 20 years was closed in mid-2005. The only international location, in Paris, was closed by PVH in March 2006. The New York store, which serves as the company’s flagship store at 654 Madison Ave., remains open still today. Partners maintain Calvin Klein Collection stores in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Mumbai, Seoul, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Dubai, and Qatar.

  • Calvin Klein (white label)

Specialty retail Calvin Klein stores, designed by New York architecture firm Lynch/Eisinger/Design have been opened at Lenox Square in Atlanta, Beverly Center in Los Angeles; now closed down, Cherry Creek Mall in Denver; now closed down, Natick Collection in Natick, MA; closing down on July 25, 2010, The Mall at Partridge Creek in Michigan; now closed down, Aventura Mall in Aventura, Florida, South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa California. An additional eight stores also designed by Lynch/Eisinger/Design are set to open in 2008. There are also several Calvin Klein Outlet stores, mostly located within factory outlet malls in the US, that sell the white label sportswear and sometimes the Calvin Klein white label at reduced prices but do not carry the Collection lines.

  • Calvin Klein Jeans

Calvin Klein Jeans stores exist around the globe. Among many other countries in the UK, Germany, Greece, Russia, Brazil, México, Croatia, Egypt, Chile, Argentina, India, the Philippines, Australia and New Zealand. They also offer franchisee and opened in Cali last year.

  • Calvin Klein Underwear

Signature Calvin Klein Underwear boutiques can be found in Ljubljana, Buenos Aires, Cardiff (as of April 2011), Mexico City, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Melbourne, Hong Kong, London, Manchester, Manila, New York City, Shanghai, Singapore, Frankfurt am Main, Munich, Toronto, Hatfield, and Burnaby, B.C. (Metro Vancouver).

  • Department Stores

The major department stores in the US, including Macy’s, Lord & Taylor, Dillard’s, and Nordstrom, as well as many small independent stores carry the ck, white label and/or Jeans collections. Some high-end department stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus also carry the Calvin Klein Collection. Notable retailers in the UK offering Calvin Klein include stores such as John Lewis, Debenhams and KJ Beckett. In Australia, the dominant retailer is Myer. Calvin Klein products are also found online with particular internet focus on selling Calvin Klein underwear and fragrance.

  • Europe and Asia

In Europe, Calvin Klein is predominantly known for its underwear, accessories and perhaps the Collection business, rather than for the medium-priced sportswear lines which are available at select high-end retail stores. In Asia, there are also signature ck Calvin Klein stores that carry diffusion line, aka grey label including womenswear, menswear, accessories.

Calvin Klein Inc. (/klaɪn/) is an American fashion house established in 1968. It specializes in leather, lifestyle accessories, home furnishings, perfumery, jewellery, watches and ready-to-wear. The company has substantial market share in retail and commercial lines as well haute couture garments.

The company was founded by designer Calvin Klein and his childhood friend, Barry K. Schwartz. The company is headquartered in Midtown Manhattan, New York City.

History[]

The early years[]

In 1968, Calvin Klein founded Calvin Klein Limited, a coat shop in the York Hotel in New York City, with $10,000. The first Calvin Klein collection was a line of «youthful, understated coats and dresses» featured at the New York City store Bonwit Teller.

In September 1969, Klein appeared on the cover of Vogue magazine.

1970s[]

By 1971, Klein had added sportswear, classic blazers, and lingerie to his women’s collection.

In 1973, he received his first Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for his 74-piece womenswear collection — the youngest recipient at that time. Klein won the award again in 1974 and 1975. By 1977, annual revenues had increased to $30 million (equivalent to $127 million in 2020), and Klein had licenses for scarves, shoes, belts, furs, sunglasses, and bedsheets . Klein and Schwartz were making $4 million each. After the company signed licenses for cosmetics, jeans, and menswear, Klein’s annual retail volume was estimated at $100 million (equivalent to $422 million in 2020). In 1978, Klein claimed sales of 200,000 pairs of his famous jeans the first week they were on the market. By 1981, Fortune figured Klein’s annual income at $8.5 million. In the mid-1970s, he had created a designer-jeans craze by putting his name on the back pocket. Klein’s design assistant at the time, Jeffrey Banks, has claimed credit for the logo garments, stating that he had the logo from a press folder silkscreened onto the sleeve of a brown T-shirt as a present for Klein. The gift was assumed by Schwartz to be part of the upcoming line, and similar logo shirts formed the uniform for the front-of-house staff at Klein’s next catwalk show, leading to buyer demand.

In the late 1970s, the company also made attempts to set up its own fragrance and cosmetics lines, but soon withdrew from the market with big financial losses.

1980s[]

In the 1980s, as the designer-jeans frenzy reached its all-time high, Calvin Klein introduced a highly successful line of boxer shorts for women and a men’s underwear collection which would later gross $70 million in a single year. The American market of men’s underwear was changed – from one where most men’s underwear was white, purchased in packs of three by a «wife, mother or girlfriend when they needed to be» to one where «the American male [cares] about the brand of something few ever see».

Growth continued through the early eighties. The licensing program, which brought in $24,000 when it was initiated in 1974 (equivalent to $124,421 in 2019), had royalty income of $7.3 million ten years later (equivalent to $17.96 million in 2020). That year, worldwide retail sales were estimated at more than $600 million (equivalent to $1476.55 million in 2020). Klein’s clothes were sold through 12,000 stores in the United States and were available in six other countries through licensing deals, namely Canada, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan. His annual income passed $12 million (equivalent to $29.53 million in 2020).

Financial problems increased pressure from all sides, disagreements with the licensee of the menswear line and its disappointing sales as well as an enormous employee turnover both within Calvin Klein and its licensing partners led to the first rumors that Calvin Klein Industries, as the company had been known by then, was up for sale. And indeed, in late 1987, it was said that the sale of the company to Triangle Industries, a container manufacturer, had only failed because of the crashing stock market.

1990s[]

Although the company almost faced bankruptcy in 1992, Calvin Klein managed to regain and increase the profitability of his empire throughout the later 1990s, mainly through the success of its highly popular underwear and fragrance lines, as well as the ck sportswear line. During his 1990-1995 stint as Calvin Klein’s head of menswear design, John Varvatos pioneered a type of men’s underwear called boxer briefs, a hybrid of boxer shorts and briefs. Made famous by a series of 1992 print ads featuring Mark «Marky Mark» Wahlberg, they have been called «one of the greatest apparel revolutions of the century.»

Klein was named «America’s Best Designer» for his minimalist all-American designs in 1993, and it came as a surprise in 1999 when it was announced that CKI was again up for sale. Planning to expand its business, the company had been approached by two luxury goods companies, LVMH and Pinault Printemps Redoute, to join Calvin Klein, but nothing resulted. Other potentials like Tommy Hilfiger Corp. and Italy’s Holding di Partecipazioni proved to be similar disappointments because of CKI’s steep price tag of supposedly $1 billion. After seven months and no potential buyer, Klein announced that his empire was not on the market anymore. The company would never manage to go public, which had supposedly been Klein’s plan once.
Former logo from 1975 to 2017

2002–present: Acquisition by Phillips van Heusen[]

In mid-December 2002, Calvin Klein Inc. (CKI) was sold to Phillips Van Heusen Corp (PVH), whose then CEO Bruce Klatsky was the driving force behind the deal, for about $400 million in cash, $30 million in stock as well as licensing rights and royalties linked to revenues over the following 15 years that were estimated at $200 to $300 million. The sale also included an ongoing personal financial incentive for Klein based on future sales of the Calvin Klein brand.

PVH outbid VF Corp., the maker of Lee and Wrangler jeans, which had also been interested in the jeans, underwear and swimwear business of CK that had been controlled by Warnaco Group, maker of Speedo swimwear in the US, since 1997. The deal with PVH did not include these businesses, and they remained with Warnaco. Unable to pay debts from acquisitions and licensing agreements and due to bad publicity by a later dismissed lawsuit with Calvin Klein over selling license products to retailers other than agreed upon with Calvin Klein, Warnaco had filed for chapter 11 protection in mid-2001 but eventually emerged from bankruptcy in February 2003.

The transaction between Calvin Klein and PVH was financially supported by Apax Partners Inc., a New York private equity firm, which is said to have made a $250 million equity investment in PVH convertible preferred stock, as well as a $125 million, two-year secured note, all in exchange for seats on the board of PVH.

CKI thus became a wholly owned subsidiary of PVH. In the beginning, Klein himself, who was included as a person in the 15-year contract he had signed with PVH, remained creative head of the collections but then continued as an advisor (consulting creative director) to the new company from 2003 on and has since been more withdrawn from the business. Barry K. Schwartz was said to concentrate on his role as chairman of the New York Racing Association, a horse-racing club. The current President and COO of the CKI division within PVH are Tom Murry, who had filled this position already before the acquisition.

Upon the acquisition of Calvin Klein, Phillips-Van Heusen announced plans of launching a new men’s sportswear collection that rivals Ralph Lauren’s collection. This line is produced by Van Heusen.

With the fall 2006 Collection runway presentations in New York City, CKI inaugurated an 8,600 sq ft (800 m2) showroom space that can seat up to 600 people on the ground floor of 205 West 39th Street, in Times Square South where Calvin Klein has been headquartered since 1978.

In a 2010 report, PVH, who manages the ready-to-wear activities, had estimated sales of €4.6 billion of Calvin Klein products.

In February 2013, Warnaco Group was acquired by PVH which united Calvin Klein formal, underwear, jeans and sportswear lines.

In 2020, PVH announced that as part of their animal welfare policy, the company does not use exotic skins and would be banning their use in Calvin Klein collections when «our annual update of that policy is released.»

Product and brand history[]

The most visible brand names in the Calvin Klein portfolio include:

  • Calvin Klein 205W39NYC (black label, upscale top-end designer line)
  • ck Calvin Klein (grey label, recently repositioned as bridge collection line; licensed to Warnaco Group, Inc. through at least 2044. PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013)
  • Calvin Klein (white label, basic fashion better sportswear line)
  • Calvin Klein Sport (sports version of the white label line for Macy’s)
  • Calvin Klein Jeans (denimwear line; licensed to Warnaco Group through at least 2044. PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013)
  • Calvin Klein Home (high end bedding, towel, bath rug and accessory collections)
  • The Khaki Collection (youthful medium to high end bedding, towel, bath rug and accessories) discontinued in 2008
  • Calvin Klein Golf (launched in late 2007)
  • Calvin Klein Underwear (underwear collections; licensed to Warnaco Group through at least 2044. PVH acquired Warnaco Group in Feb 2013)
  • CK one Lifestyle brand (fragrance, underwear, jeans -launched 2011)
  • Calvin Klein Watches + Jewelry (watches launched in 1997, jewelry in 2004)

Fragrances[]

Calvin Klein has various lines of perfumes and colognes, including Obsession, CK Be, and Eternity. Until May 2005, their perfumes and the corresponding fragrance lines were maintained by Calvin Klein Cosmetics Company (CKCC), a Unilever company. Cosmetics giant Coty, Inc. of New York bought the fragrance licensing agreements from Unilever.

Advertising[]

The early ads were shot by Bruce Weber and Richard Avedon. One of his male underwear models, Mark Wahlberg, went on to fame as hip hop star «Marky Mark», launching himself into the Hollywood scene to become a current actor. Another Hollywood star first appearing in Calvin Klein advertisements is Antonio Sabato Jr.. Calvin Klein employed Kate Moss at the start of her career in the early 1990s and in 2002 after allegations of cocaine use. Other models who have appeared in advertisements early in their careers are Natalia Vodianova, and Toni Garrn. Currently Calvin Klein uses Shawn Mendes, Tyson Ballou and Lara Stone, and in the past has also used Christy Turlington, Jerry Hall, Patti Hansen, Tom Hintnaus, Travis Fimmel, Doutzen Kroes, Mini Anden, Garrett Neff, Sean O’Pry, Edita Vilkeviciute, Jamie Dornan, Liu Wen and Edward Furlong.

Actors such as Eva Mendes, Mehcad Brooks, Scarlett Johansson, Kellan Lutz, Andie MacDowell, Alexander Skarsgard, Zoe Saldana, Rita Ora, Rooney Mara, Lupita Nyong’o, Margot Robbie, Saoirse Ronan, Jake Gyllenhaal and Diane Kruger have also been chosen to model for the brand. Swedish footballer Freddie Ljungberg starred in a series of adverts for the company. Recently, singer Justin Bieber appeared in advertising for Calvin Klein’s underwear range, as did fashion model Kendall Jenner. In 2017 Solange Knowles became the face of the campaign Our Music, #MYCALVINS. On July 16, 2018, Saoirse Ronan and Lupita Nyong’o were announced as the faces of Raf Simons first fragrance for the brand, named Women. They also have experimented with emerging technologies. When advertising cKOne perfume in 1999, they placed e-mail addresses in print advertisements, targeted at teenagers. When these teens mailed these addresses, they would be placed on a mailing list that sent them mails with vague details about the models’ lives, with fake details meant to make them more relatable. These mails came at unpredictable intervals and were supposed to give readers the feeling that they had some connection with these characters. Though the mailing lists were discontinued in 2002, the campaign has inspired similar marketing tactics for movies and other retail products. In 2019, Calvin Klein featured an ad by Sarah Rae Vargas for plus-sized women. In 2020, Calvin Klein invited black trans model Jari Jones and other eight LGBTQ models featured its pride campaign #PROUDINMYCALVINS.

Branding[]

Like other fashion brands, Calvin Klein established a monogram: the «ck» emblem.

Licensees[]

As of 2012, the top three licensees were:

  • Warnaco Group — 40% of license royalties, which is «around $100 million»
  • Coty — 12% of license royalties
  • G-III Apparel Group — 14% of license royalties

Internet[]

In 2004, the company bought the domain name CK.com. Calvin Klein is one of the few corporations worldwide to own a two letter domain name.

Designers[]

When Calvin Klein was acquired by PVH Corp. in 2003, Francisco Costa was appointed the Women’s Creative Director of Calvin Klein Collection. Costa had already worked with Klein directly before the founder’s departure from the company, and had taken the director position in 2003.

Italo Zucchelli, a former Jil Sander and Romeo Gigli designer, had collaborated with Calvin Klein for six seasons before he became head designer and Men’s Creative Director of the Calvin Klein Collection menswear line in spring 2004.

Kevin Carrigan, an Englishman, was named the global creative director of the ck Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein (white label), Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear brands and their related licensed products. Carrigan had been with Calvin Klein since 1998.

In April 2016, it was announced that Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli would be leaving the company.

In August 2016, Calvin Klein, Inc. announced the appointment of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer of the brand, overseeing all aspects of design, global market and communications, and visual creative services. Simons assumed the creative strategy of the Calvin Klein brand globally across the company’s ready to wear, bridge, sportswear, jeans, underwear and home lines. Pieter Mulier was also announced as Creative Director, reporting directly to Simons and responsible for executing his creative and design vision for men’s and women’s ready to wear, bridge and better apparel and accessories. It was also announced that Kevin Carrigan resigned from the company for a creative role at Ralph Lauren. Simons’s first collections debuted for the Fall 2017 season.

In December 2016, it was announced that Amy Mellen would leave the company.

In January 2017, it was announced that Clémande Burgevin Blachman would assume the role of Vice President of Design for Calvin Klein Home.

In December 2018, it was announced that Raf Simons had parted from Calvin Klein after only two years at the company.

Corporate[]

Stores[]

  • Calvin Klein Collection

In the late 1990s, the company opened elegant Calvin Klein Collection stores in Paris, Seoul, and Taipei and ultra high-end cK Calvin Klein stores in Hong Kong, Milan, and Kuwait City. As of today, there is only one Calvin Klein Collection store operated by CKI. It is located in New York City. Out of the two Calvin Klein Collection stores that existed in the US, the Dallas location in Highland Park Village which had been open for 20 years was closed in mid-2005. The only international location, in Paris, was closed by PVH in March 2006. The New York store, which serves as the company’s flagship store at 654 Madison Ave., remains open still today. Partners maintain Calvin Klein Collection stores in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Mumbai, Seoul, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Dubai, and Qatar.

  • Calvin Klein (white label)

Specialty retail Calvin Klein stores, designed by New York architecture firm Lynch/Eisinger/Design have been opened at Lenox Square in Atlanta, Beverly Center in Los Angeles; now closed down, Cherry Creek Mall in Denver; now closed down, Natick Collection in Natick, MA; closing down on July 25, 2010, The Mall at Partridge Creek in Michigan; now closed down, Aventura Mall in Aventura, Florida, South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa California. An additional eight stores also designed by Lynch/Eisinger/Design are set to open in 2008. There are also several Calvin Klein Outlet stores, mostly located within factory outlet malls in the US, that sell the white label sportswear and sometimes the Calvin Klein white label at reduced prices but do not carry the Collection lines.

  • Calvin Klein Jeans

Calvin Klein Jeans stores exist around the globe. Among many other countries in the UK, Germany, Greece, Russia, Brazil, México, Croatia, Egypt, Chile, Argentina, India, the Philippines, Australia and New Zealand. They also offer franchisee and opened in Cali last year.

  • Calvin Klein Underwear

Signature Calvin Klein Underwear boutiques can be found in Ljubljana, Buenos Aires, Cardiff (as of April 2011), Mexico City, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Melbourne, Hong Kong, London, Manchester, Manila, New York City, Shanghai, Singapore, Frankfurt am Main, Munich, Toronto, Hatfield, and Burnaby, B.C. (Metro Vancouver).

  • Department Stores

The major department stores in the US, including Macy’s, Lord & Taylor, Dillard’s, and Nordstrom, as well as many small independent stores carry the ck, white label and/or Jeans collections. Some high-end department stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus also carry the Calvin Klein Collection. Notable retailers in the UK offering Calvin Klein include stores such as John Lewis, Debenhams and KJ Beckett. In Australia, the dominant retailer is Myer. Calvin Klein products are also found online with particular internet focus on selling Calvin Klein underwear and fragrance.

  • Europe and Asia

In Europe, Calvin Klein is predominantly known for its underwear, accessories and perhaps the Collection business, rather than for the medium-priced sportswear lines which are available at select high-end retail stores. In Asia, there are also signature ck Calvin Klein stores that carry diffusion line, aka grey label including womenswear, menswear, accessories.


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  • Nike – Найки. Нет, не просто «Найк», а именно «Найки». Кстати, неправильное произношение названия марки так прижилось, особенно у нас, в России, что само российское представительство бренда стало называть его неправильно.
  • Levi’s – Ливайз. Если исходить из правил английской грамматики и учитывать то, что создателя марки звали Леви, то правильно будет «Левис». Однако все больше и больше источников настаивают на том, что правильно все-таки «Ливайз».
  • Hermès – Эрмэс. Никаких «Гермесов» и «Хермесов»! И букву «с» на конце тоже терять не стоит. Все-таки это название произошло от фамилии основателя, а значит, обычные правила французского языка тут не совсем действуют.
  • Christian Louboutin – Кристиан Лубутан. Французы иногда еще убирают обе «н» на конце. Но это важно не так сильно, как то, что «Лубутан», а не «Лабутен» или «Лубутен».
  • Hervé Léger – Эрве Леже. Дизайнер марки по совету Карла Лагерфельда поменял свою фамилию на Леже, чтобы клиентам было легче запомнить.
  • Burberry – Бёрбери. Вспомни об этом, когда в очередной раз будешь говорить, что мечтаешь об их тренче.
  • Moschino – Москино. Никаких «ч» тут нет.
  • Lanvin – Ланван. Здесь читается не так, как пишется.
  • Vera Wang – Вера Вонг. На крайний случай – Вэнг (американцы часто говорят именно так). Но не Ванг!
  • Chloé – Клоэ. А не Хлоя.
  • Calvin Klein – Калвин Клайн. Некоторые вообще читают не Калвин, а Кевин почему-то…
  • Zuhair Murad – Зухер Мурад. Да-да, именно так.
  • Carolina Herrera – Каролина Эррера. Фамилия дизайнера читается на испанский манер.
  • Tommy Hilfiger – Томми Хилфигер. Сколько можно коверкать фамилии?
  • Mulberry – Малбери. Не Мулбери.

Теги:

  • Названия брендов
  • Nike
  • Levi’s
  • Hermès
  • Christian Louboutin
  • Herve Leger
  • Burberry
  • Moschino
  • Lanvin
  • Vera Wang
  • Chloé
  • Calvin Klein
  • Zuhair Murad
  • Carolina Herrera
  • Tommy Hilfiger
  • Mulberry
Calvin Klein Inc
CK Calvin Klein.png
Тип

Мода

Год основания

1968

Расположение

Флаг США Нью-Йорк, США

Ключевые фигуры

Барри Шварц
Кельвин Кляйн

Отрасль

Одежда, обувь, парфюмерия,часы

Материнская компания

«PVH Corp»

Сайт

Официальный сайт

Calvin Klein Inc — Имеет двух создателей, Кельвина и Кляйна с 2013 года. американская дизайн-студия, изготовляющая одежду стиля унисекс. Материнской компанией является «PVH Corp», которая владеет брендом.[1]

Магазин Calvin Klein Jeans

Содержание

  • 1 История
    • 1.1 Собственники
    • 1.2 Джинсы
    • 1.3 Бельё
  • 2 Calvin Klein в России
  • 3 Парфюмерия Calvin Klein
  • 4 Интересные факты
  • 5 См. также
  • 6 Примечания
  • 7 Ссылки

История

Фирма «Calvin Klein, Ltd» была основана в 1968 году Келвином Кляйном и его другом детства Барри Шварцем в Нью-Йорке. Сначала ателье выпускало мужскую верхнюю одежду, затем постепенно перешло к дизайну одежды для женщин. В 1970-е для женской моды был адаптирован классический мужской костюм. Представленное в 1970 году двубортное короткое пальто с широкими лацканами не только стало хитом сезона, но и оказало сильное влияние на моду верхней женской одежды почти на десятилетие. В 1974 году Кляйн создал коллекцию аксессуаров и меховой одежды. [2]

Собственники

Председатель и Главный Исполнительный директор «PVH Corp» (Emanuel Chirico) Эмануэль Кирико. [3]

Джинсы

В 1978 году Кляйн первым в мире стал представлять на подиумах и продавать «дизайнерские джинсы», которые позволяли девушкам демонстрировать длину ног и стройность бедер. Кроме того, на заднем кармане джинсов размещался хорошо заметный логотип компании — тогда «логомания» только начиналась.[4]

Бельё

В 1982 году Кляйн разработал коллекцию мужского нижнего белья. В его рекламе использовалось полуобнажённое мужское тело. 1992 год считается датой рождения популярного молодёжного стиля «унисекс». В рекламе использовались полуобнажённая пара, в которой девушка и юноша походили друг на друга фигурами, причёской и одеждой. В 1999 году снова прошла скандальная рекламная кампания нижнего белья для детей и подростков, в которой использовались провокационные признанные фривольными фотографии с детьми. Рекламная кампания была приостановлена, а дизайнер публично принёс свои извинения.

К одежде Кляйн разработал ряд ароматов, имеющих мужской и женский варианты:

  • «Вечность» (1983 г.)
  • «Одержимость» (1985 г.),
  • «Отдушина» (1986 г.).

Трижды он получал премии «Coty» (1973, 1974, 1975 гг.). Четыре раза удостаивался национальной награды Соединённых Штатов в области моды — American Fashion Awards.

В 2003 г. Кляйн продал свою компанию

Calvin Klein в России

В 2001 году был открыт бутик Calvin Klein в ГУМе, который вскоре закрылся, и новый магазин появился уже в 27 марта 2003 года в ТК «Охотный ряд» на Манежной, ставший 37 по счёту в сети магазинов CK.[5]

Парфюмерия Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein — один из наиболее продающихся брендов в области элитной парфюмерии и косметики. Первый аромат от Calvin Klein был выпущен в 1981 году.

В 1986 году права на выпуск парфюмерии под маркой Calvin Klein покупает корпорация Coty. Всего в настоящий момент выпущен 61 аромат Calvin Klein.

Наиболее успешные ароматы:

  • CK One
  • CK Be
  • CK Euphoria
  • CK Obsession
  • CK Truth
  • CK Eternity

Интересные факты

  • Осев в США и Европе, фирма в 1990-е годы активно расширялась на восток, открывая свои бутики в Гонконге, Джакарте, Кувейте.
  • В рекламе, призывающей носить белье с широкой корсетной резинкой и надписью Calvin Klein, снимаются знаменитый рэпер М. Марк и супермодель Д. Вест. Дизайнер впервые ввёл в рекламу полуобнажённое мужское тело. Кляйн утверждал, что он «разрабатывает нижнее белье для того, чтобы люди выглядели сексуальными».
  • Кляйн сделал деним предметом дизайна, изобразив Брук Шилдс улыбающейся с рекламных фотографий, а внизу был текст: «Ты знаешь, что между мной и моими джинсами ничего нет?..» В США разразился скандал, дизайнера обвиняли в использовании несовершеннолетних и в «съёмках, близких к порнографическим». Скандал устранили, джинсы сняли с производства, и только в 1998 году фирма опять вернулась к ставшей уже классической модели.
  • Плакат «Тайная вечеря от Кляйна», на которой воспроизведён известный библейский сюжет, но с полуобнажёнными моделями обоего пола в джинсах, вызвал широкий резонанс в обществе. Церковь выставила дизайнеру иск на миллион долларов, который пришлось уплатить.[4]

См. также

  • Armani
  • Dolce&Gabbana
  • Lacoste
  • Guerlain
  • Givenchy

Примечания

  1. о компании Calvin Klein
  2. Энциклопедия брендов
  3. Обращение Председателя PVH Corp
  4. 1 2 Хулиган от моды. Кельвин Кляйн отмечает 65-летие, «Weekend» — приложение к газете «РБК Daily», 16.11.2007.
  5. Мистер Кляйн, наш номер — 37!

Ссылки

  • Официальный сайт (англ.)
  • Жизнь в стиле Calvin Klein (рус.)
  • Официальный сайт материнской компании PVH Corp  (англ.)
  • Calvin Klein Perfumes
  • Парфюмерия Calvin Klein (рус.)
Calvin Klein Inc.

Calvin Klein logo.svg
Тип Дочернее предприятие
Промышленность Одежда , парфюмерия , мода
Основан 1968 ; 53 года назад
Учредители Calvin Klein
Барри К. Шварц
Штаб-квартира

Нью-Йорк

,

нас

Обслуживаемая площадь

по всему миру

Действующие лица

Шерил Абель-Ходжес ( генеральный директор )
Джин Госселин ( финансовый директор )
Продукты Одежда , духи , нижнее белье , часы и т. Д.
Услуги Розничная торговля

Количество работников

1001–5000 (2015)
Родитель ПВХ (2002 – настоящее время)
Веб-сайт CalvinKlein.com

Calvin Klein Inc. ( ) — американский дом моды, основанный в 1968 году. Он специализируется на кожаных изделиях , аксессуарах для жизни, домашней мебели, парфюмерии , ювелирных изделиях, часах и готовой одежде . Компания занимает значительную долю рынка в розничных и коммерческих линиях, а также в производстве одежды от кутюр .

Компанию основали дизайнер Кэлвин Кляйн и его друг детства Барри К. Шварц . Штаб-квартира компании находится в центре Манхэттена , Нью-Йорк.

История

Ранние годы

Кэлвин Кляйн был одним из нескольких лидеров дизайна, выросших в еврейской общине Бронкса, наряду с Робертом Деннингом и Ральфом Лореном . Он стал протеже из барона де Гинцбург , через чьи интродукции он стал тост из Нью — Йорка элиты сцены моды еще до того , как был его первый успех мейнстрим с запуском своей первой джинсовой линии. Его талант сразу же был признан после его первого крупного показа на Неделе моды в Нью-Йорке .

В 1968 году Кляйн основал Calvin Klein Limited, магазин верхней одежды в отеле York в Нью-Йорке, на сумму 10 000 долларов. Первой коллекцией Calvin Klein была линия «молодежных сдержанных пальто и платьев», представленная в нью-йоркском магазине Bonwit Teller .

В сентябре 1969 года Кляйн появилась на обложке журнала Vogue .

1970-е

К 1971 году Кляйн добавил в свою женскую коллекцию спортивную одежду, классические блейзеры и нижнее белье.

В 1973 году он получил свою первую премию американских модных критиков Coty за свою коллекцию женской одежды из 74 предметов — самую молодую награду в то время. Кляйн снова выигрывал эту награду в 1974 и 1975 годах. К 1977 году годовой доход увеличился до 30 миллионов долларов (что эквивалентно 128 миллионам долларов в 2021 году), и у Кляйна были лицензии на шарфы, обувь, ремни, меха, солнцезащитные очки и простыни. Кляйн и Шварц зарабатывали по 4 миллиона долларов каждый. После того, как компания подписала лицензии на косметику, джинсы и мужскую одежду, годовой объем розничных продаж Кляйна оценивался в 100 миллионов долларов (что эквивалентно 427 миллионам долларов в 2021 году). В 1978 году Кляйн заявил, что за первую неделю их появления на рынке было продано 200 000 пар своих знаменитых джинсов. К 1981 году Fortune оценила годовой доход Кляйна в 8,5 миллиона долларов. В середине 1970-х он произвел повальное увлечение дизайнерскими джинсами, написав свое имя на заднем кармане. Тогдашний помощник дизайнера Кляйна Джеффри Бэнкс заявил, что он получил логотип из папки для прессы, нанесенный шелкографией на рукаве коричневой футболки в качестве подарка Кляйну. Шварц предполагал, что подарок станет частью предстоящей линии, и аналогичные рубашки с логотипом сформировали униформу для парадного персонала на следующем подиуме Кляйна, что привело к спросу со стороны покупателей.

В конце 1970-х компания также предприняла попытки создать собственные линии парфюмерии и косметики , но вскоре ушла с рынка с большими финансовыми потерями.

1980-е

В 1980-х годах, когда безумие дизайнеров джинсов достигло своего небывалого пика, Calvin Klein представил очень успешную линию боксеров для женщин и коллекцию мужского нижнего белья, которая позже принесла бы 70 миллионов долларов за год. Американский рынок мужского нижнего белья изменился — от того, где большинство мужских трусов было белым, которое покупалось пачками по три «жена, мать или подруга, когда им нужно было», до того, где американский мужчина [заботится] о бренде чего-то, что мало кто когда-либо видел «.

Рост продолжался до начала восьмидесятых. Программа лицензирования, которая принесла 24000 долларов, когда она была запущена в 1974 году (что эквивалентно 125 943 долларам в 2020 году), принесла доход от лицензионных отчислений через десять лет в размере 7,3 миллиона долларов (что эквивалентно 18,18 миллиона долларов в 2021 году). В том году мировые розничные продажи оценивались более чем в 60 миллионов долларов (что эквивалентно 1494,62 миллиона долларов в 2021 году). Одежда Кляйна продавалась через 12 000 магазинов в США и была доступна в шести других странах по лицензионным сделкам, а именно в Канаде, Великобритании, Ирландии, Австралии, Новой Зеландии и Японии. Его годовой доход превысил 12 миллионов долларов (что эквивалентно 29,89 миллионам долларов в 2021 году).

Финансовые проблемы усилили давление со всех сторон, разногласия с лицензиатом линии мужской одежды и его неутешительные продажи, а также огромная текучесть кадров как внутри Calvin Klein, так и его лицензионных партнеров привели к первым слухам о том, что Calvin Klein Industries как компания известный к тому времени был выставлен на продажу. И действительно, в конце 1987 года было сказано, что продажа компании Triangle Industries, производителю контейнеров, провалилась только из-за обвала фондового рынка.

1990-е годы

Хотя в 1992 году компания чуть не столкнулась с банкротством, Кельвину Кляйну удалось восстановить и увеличить прибыльность своей империи в конце 1990-х годов, в основном благодаря успеху своей очень популярной линии нижнего белья и парфюмерии, а также линии спортивной одежды ck. Во время своей работы в 1990–1995 годах в качестве руководителя отдела дизайна мужской одежды Calvin Klein Джон Варватос первым изобрел тип мужского нижнего белья, названный боксерскими трусами , гибридом боксерских шорт и трусов . Прославленные серией печатной рекламы 1992 года с изображением Марка «Марки Марк Уолберг» , они были названы «одной из величайших революций в одежде века».

В 1993 году Кляйн был назван «Лучшим дизайнером Америки» за свой минималистский полностью американский дизайн, а в 1999 году стало неожиданностью, когда было объявлено, что CKI снова выставлен на продажу. Планируя расширить свой бизнес, к компании обратились две компании, производящие предметы роскоши, LVMH и Pinault Printemps Redoute , с предложением присоединиться к Calvin Klein, но ничего не вышло. Другие потенциалы, такие как Tommy Hilfiger Corp. и итальянский Holding di Partecipazioni, оказались похожими разочарованиями из-за высокой цены CKI, предположительно в 1 миллиард долларов. После семи месяцев и отсутствия потенциального покупателя Кляйн объявил, что его империя больше не продается. Компании никогда не удастся стать публичной, что якобы когда-то было планом Кляйна.

Бывший логотип с 1975 по 2017 год

2002 – настоящее время: приобретение компанией Phillips van Heusen.

В середине декабря 2002 года Calvin Klein Inc. (CKI) была продана компании Phillips Van Heusen Corp (PVH), тогдашний генеральный директор которой Брюс Клацки был движущей силой сделки, примерно за 400 миллионов долларов наличными, а также 30 миллионов долларов в акциях. в качестве лицензионных прав и роялти, связанных с доходами в течение следующих 15 лет, которые оценивались в 200–300 миллионов долларов. Продажа также включала постоянный личный финансовый стимул для Кляйна, основанный на будущих продажах бренда Calvin Klein.

PVH перебила цену VF Corp. , производителя джинсов Lee and Wrangler , которая также была заинтересована в бизнесе джинсов, нижнего белья и купальных костюмов компании CK, который с 1997 года контролировался Warnaco Group , производителем купальных костюмов Speedo в США. с ПВХ эти предприятия не вошли, и они остались с Варнако. Не имея возможности выплатить долги по соглашениям о приобретениях и лицензионных соглашениях, а также из-за плохой огласки из-за более позднего отклоненного судебного процесса с Calvin Klein по поводу продажи лицензионных продуктов розничным торговцам, не согласованным с Calvin Klein, Warnaco подала заявку на защиту по главе 11 в середине 2001 года, но в конечном итоге появилась от банкротства в феврале 2003 г.

Сделка между Calvin Klein и PVH была при финансовой поддержке Apax Partners Inc. , нью-йоркской частной инвестиционной компании, которая, как сообщается, вложила 250 миллионов долларов в акционерный капитал конвертируемых привилегированных акций PVH, а также 125 миллионов долларов на двухлетний период. Застрахованная записка, все в обмен на места на борту ПВХ.

Таким образом, CKI стала 100-процентной дочерней компанией PVH. Вначале сам Кляйн, который был включен как человек в 15-летний контракт, который он подписал с PVH, оставался креативным руководителем коллекций, но затем продолжил работу советником (креативным директором-консультантом) в новой компании с 2003 года. с тех пор больше отдалился от бизнеса. Говорят, что Барри К. Шварц сконцентрировался на своей роли председателя New York Racing Association , клуба скачек. Нынешним президентом и главным операционным директором подразделения CKI в PVH является Том Мерри, который занимал эту должность еще до приобретения.

После приобретения Calvin Klein компания Phillips-Van Heusen объявила о планах по запуску новой коллекции мужской спортивной одежды, которая составит конкуренцию коллекции Ralph Lauren. Эта линия произведена Van Heusen.

Осенью 2006 года на подиуме коллекции Collection в Нью-Йорке, CKI открыла выставочный зал площадью 800 м 2, который может вместить до 600 человек, на первом этаже 205 West 39th Street, на Таймс-сквер Юг, где находится Calvin Klein. штаб-квартира с 1978 года.

В отчете за 2010 год компания PVH, которая занимается производством готовой одежды, оценила объем продаж продукции Calvin Klein в 4,6 миллиарда евро.

В феврале 2013 года Warnaco Group была приобретена компанией PVH, которая объединила линии одежды Calvin Klein для формального, нижнего белья, джинсов и спортивной одежды.

В 2020 году PVH объявил, что в рамках своей политики защиты животных компания не использует экзотические шкуры и запретит их использование в коллекциях Calvin Klein, когда «будет выпущено наше ежегодное обновление этой политики».

История продукта и бренда

Модель в спортивном бюстгальтере и нижнем белье Calvin Klein.

Наиболее заметные торговые марки в портфолио Calvin Klein включают:

  • Calvin Klein 205W39NYC (черный лейбл, высококлассная дизайнерская линия высшего класса)
  • ck Calvin Klein (серая этикетка, недавно переименованная в линию по сбору мостов; лицензия принадлежит Warnaco Group, Inc. не менее 2044 года. PVH приобрела Warnaco Group в феврале 2013 года)
  • Calvin Klein (белый лейбл, линия спортивной одежды basic fashion better)
  • Calvin Klein Sport (спортивная версия линии white label для Macy’s )
  • Calvin Klein Jeans (линия джинсовой одежды; лицензия принадлежит Warnaco Group не менее 2044 года. PVH приобрела Warnaco Group в феврале 2013 года)
  • Calvin Klein Home (коллекции элитного постельного белья, полотенец, ковриков и аксессуаров)
  • Коллекция Khaki (молодежное постельное белье среднего и высокого класса, полотенце, коврик и аксессуары) снята с производства в 2008 году.
  • Calvin Klein Golf (запущен в конце 2007 года)
  • Calvin Klein Underwear (коллекции нижнего белья; лицензия принадлежит Warnaco Group не менее 2044 года. PVH приобрела Warnaco Group в феврале 2013 года)
  • Бренд CK one Lifestyle (парфюмерия, нижнее белье, джинсы — запущен в 2011 г.)
  • Calvin Klein Watches + Jewelry (часы выпущены в 1997 г., ювелирные изделия — в 2004 г.)

Подробнее см. Текущие бренды и лицензии .

Ароматизаторы

Calvin Klein предлагает различные линии духов и одеколонов, включая Obsession, CK Be и Eternity . До мая 2005 года их духи и соответствующие парфюмерные линии поддерживались Calvin Klein Cosmetics Company (CKCC), входящей в состав Unilever . Косметический гигант Coty, Inc. из Нью-Йорка выкупил лицензионные соглашения на парфюмерию у Unilever .

Реклама

Первые рекламные ролики снимали Брюс Вебер и Ричард Аведон . Одна из его моделей мужского нижнего белья, Марк Уолберг , прославилась как звезда хип-хопа «Марки Марк», пробившись на голливудскую сцену, чтобы стать действующим актером. Другой голливудской звездой, впервые появившейся в рекламе Calvin Klein, является Антонио Сабато-младший. Кельвин Кляйн нанял Кейт Мосс в начале ее карьеры в начале 1990-х и в 2002 году после обвинений в употреблении кокаина. Другие модели, которые появлялись в рекламе в начале своей карьеры, — это Наталья Водянова и Тони Гаррн . В настоящее время Calvin Klein использует Шона Мендеса , Тайсона Баллоу и Лару Стоун , а в прошлом также использовал Кристи Терлингтон , Джерри Холл , Патти Хансен , Том Хинтнаус , Трэвис Фиммел , Даутцен Крус , Мини Анден , Гаррет Нефф , Шон О’Прай , Эдита. Вилкявичюте , Джейми Дорнан , Лю Вен и Эдвард Ферлонг .

Актеры , такие как Ева Мендес , Мехкад Брукс , Скарлетт Йоханссон , Келлан Лутц , Энди МакДауэлл , Александр Скарсгард , Зои Салдана , Рита Ора , Руни Мара , Нионго , Марго Робби , Сирша Ронан , Джейк Джилленхол и Диана Крюгер также были выбраны моделировать для бренда. Шведский футболист Фредди Юнгберг снялся в серии рекламных роликов компании. Недавно певец Джастин Бибер появился в рекламе нижнего белья Calvin Klein, как и фотомодель Кендалл Дженнер . В 2017 году Соланж Ноулз стала лицом кампании Our Music, #MYCALVINS . 16 июля 2018 года Сирша Ронан и Люпита Нионго были объявлены лицами первого аромата Рафа Симонса под названием Women.
Летом 2020 года знаменитый актер Джи Чан Ук стал первым корейским представителем бренда mondial.

Они также экспериментировали с новыми технологиями. Когда реклама cKOne духи в 1999 году, они размещены адреса электронной почты в печатных рекламных объявлениях, ориентированных на подростках. Когда эти подростки отправляли эти адреса по почте, их помещали в список рассылки, который отправлял им письма с расплывчатыми подробностями о жизни моделей, с вымышленными подробностями, чтобы сделать их более понятными. Эти письма приходили с непредсказуемыми интервалами и должны были дать читателям ощущение, что они имеют какую-то связь с этими персонажами. Хотя списки рассылки были прекращены в 2002 году, кампания вдохновила схожую маркетинговую тактику на фильмы и другие розничные товары. В 2019 году Calvin Klein представила рекламу Сары Рэй Варгас для полных женщин. В 2020 году Calvin Klein пригласил чернокожую транс-модель Яри ​​Джонса, а восемь других ЛГБТ- моделей представили свою кампанию #PROUDINMYCALVINS .

Брендинг

Как и другие модные бренды, Calvin Klein установил монограмму: эмблему ck.

Лицензиаты

По состоянию на 2012 год тремя основными лицензиатами были:

  • Warnaco Group — 40% лицензионных отчислений, что составляет «около 100 миллионов долларов».
  • Coty — 12% лицензионных отчислений
  • G-III Apparel Group — 14% лицензионных отчислений

Интернет

В 2004 году компания купила доменное имя CK.com. Calvin Klein — одна из немногих корпораций в мире, владеющих двухбуквенным доменным именем .

Дизайнеров

Когда Calvin Klein был приобретен PVH Corp. в 2003 году, Франсиско Коста был назначен креативным директором по женской коллекции Calvin Klein Collection. Коста уже работал с Кляйном непосредственно перед уходом основателя из компании и занял должность директора в 2003 году.

Итало Зуккелли , бывший дизайнер Jil Sander и Romeo Gigli, сотрудничал с Кельвином Кляйном в течение шести сезонов, прежде чем весной 2004 года стал главным дизайнером и креативным директором мужской линии мужской одежды Calvin Klein Collection.

Кевин Карриган, англичанин, был назначен глобальным креативным директором брендов CK Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein (white label), Calvin Klein Jeans и Calvin Klein Underwear и связанных с ними лицензионных товаров. Кэрриган была с Кельвином Кляйном с 1998 года.

В апреле 2016 года было объявлено, что Франсиско Коста и Итало Дзуккелли покинут компанию.

В августе 2016 года Calvin Klein, Inc. объявила о назначении Рафа Симонса главным креативным директором бренда, курирующим все аспекты дизайна, глобального рынка и коммуникаций, а также услуги визуального творчества. Саймонс взял на себя глобальную креативную стратегию бренда Calvin Klein в линиях готовой одежды, бриджей, спортивной одежды, джинсов, нижнего белья и товаров для дома. Питер Мюльер также был объявлен креативным директором, подчиняясь непосредственно Саймонсу и отвечая за реализацию его творческого и дизайнерского видения мужской и женской готовой одежды, бриджа и лучшей одежды и аксессуаров. Также было объявлено, что Кевин Карриган ушел из компании ради творческой роли в Ralph Lauren. Первые коллекции Саймонса дебютировали в сезоне осень 2017.

В декабре 2016 года было объявлено, что Эми Меллен покинет компанию.

В январе 2017 года было объявлено, что Клеманда Буржевен Блахман займет должность вице-президента по дизайну Calvin Klein Home.

В декабре 2018 года было объявлено, что Раф Симонс расстался с Calvin Klein всего через два года в компании.

В ноябре 2020 года Джессика Ломакс была назначена глобальным руководителем по дизайну, возглавляя глобальную стратегию дизайна Calvin Klein и обеспечивая творческое руководство во всех сферах бизнеса.

Корпоративный

магазины

  • Коллекция Calvin Klein

В конце 1990-х компания открыла элегантные магазины Calvin Klein Collection в Париже, Сеуле и Тайбэе, а также магазины ультрасовременной продукции cK Calvin Klein в Гонконге, Милане и Кувейте. На сегодняшний день существует только один магазин Calvin Klein Collection, управляемый CKI. Он расположен в Нью-Йорке. Из двух магазинов Calvin Klein Collection , существовавших в США, магазин в Далласе в Хайленд-Парк-Виллидж, который был открыт в течение 20 лет, был закрыт в середине 2005 года. Единственный международный магазин в Париже был закрыт PVH в марте 2006 года. Магазин в Нью-Йорке, который является флагманским магазином компании на 654 Мэдисон-авеню, открыт и по сей день. Партнеры поддерживают магазины Calvin Klein Collection в Гонконге, Шанхае, Мумбаи, Сеуле, Сингапуре, Куала-Лумпуре, Бангкоке, Дубае и Катаре.

  • Calvin Klein (белая этикетка)

Специализированные магазины розничной торговли Calvin Klein, спроектированные нью-йоркской архитектурной фирмой Lynch / Eisinger / Design, были открыты на площади Ленокс в Атланте, в центре Беверли в Лос-Анджелесе; закрытый торговый центр Cherry Creek в Денвере; сейчас закрыта, Natick Collection в Натике, Массачусетс; закрытие 25 июля 2010 года торгового центра в Партридж-Крик в Мичигане; сейчас закрыт, Авентура Молл в Авентуре, Флорида, Плаза Южного побережья в Коста-Меса, Калифорния. Еще восемь магазинов, также разработанных Lynch / Eisinger / Design, должны открыться в 2008 году. Есть также несколько аутлетов Calvin Klein Outlet, в основном расположенных в фирменных торговых центрах США, которые продают спортивную одежду white label, а иногда и Calvin Klein white. этикетка по сниженным ценам, но без линий коллекции .

  • Джинсы Calvin Klein

Магазины Calvin Klein Jeans существуют по всему миру. Среди многих других стран в Великобритании, Германии, Греции, России , Бразилии , Мексике , Хорватии , Египте , Чили , Аргентине , Индии, Филиппинах , Австралии и Новой Зеландии. Они также предлагают франчайзи и открылись в Кали в прошлом году.

  • Нижнее белье Calvin Klein

Фирменные бутики Calvin Klein Underwear можно найти в Любляне , Буэнос-Айресе , Кардиффе (по состоянию на апрель 2011 г.), Мехико , Эдинбурге , Глазго , Мельбурне , Гонконге, Лондоне, Манчестере , Маниле, Нью-Йорке, Шанхае, Сингапуре , Франкфурте-на-Майне. Мейн, Мюнхен, Торонто, Хатфилд и Бернаби, Британская Колумбия ( метро Ванкувера ).

  • Универмаги

В крупных универмагах США, включая Macy’s , Lord & Taylor , Dillard’s и Nordstrom , а также во многих небольших независимых магазинах представлены коллекции ck, white label и / или Jeans. Некоторые элитные универмаги, такие как Bergdorf Goodman , Saks Fifth Avenue и Neiman Marcus, также продают коллекцию Calvin Klein . Известные розничные торговцы в Великобритании, предлагающие Calvin Klein, включают такие магазины, как John Lewis , Debenhams и KJ Beckett . В Австралии доминирующим розничным продавцом является Myer . Продукты Calvin Klein также можно найти в Интернете, причем особое внимание в Интернете уделяется продаже нижнего белья и парфюмерии Calvin Klein.

  • Европа и Азия

В Европе Calvin Klein в основном известен своим нижним бельем, аксессуарами и, возможно, бизнесом коллекций , а не линиями спортивной одежды средней ценовой категории, которые доступны в избранных розничных магазинах высокого класса. В Азии также есть фирменные магазины ck Calvin Klein, которые предлагают диффузную линию, также известную как серый лейбл, включая женскую одежду, мужскую одежду и аксессуары.

Споры

В 1980 году Ричард Аведон сфотографировал и руководил рекламной кампанией Calvin Klein Jeans с участием пятнадцатилетней Брук Шилдс . Некоторые из этих рекламных объявлений были запрещены, в том числе печально известная реклама, в которой Брук спрашивает: «Вы хотите знать, что происходит между мной и моими Кальвинсами? Ничего!», Которую часто неправильно цитируют как «Ничто не встает между мной и моими Кальвинсами».

Рекламу 1995 года, продвигающую джинсы Calvin Klein, критиковали как «детское порно».

В августе 2012 года Lululemon Athletica подала иск против Calvin Klein и поставщика G-III Apparel Group за нарушение трех патентов Lululemon на дизайн штанов для йоги . Судебный процесс был несколько необычным, поскольку в нем участвовал дизайнер, стремящийся отстоять защиту интеллектуальной собственности на одежду с помощью патентных прав. 20 ноября 2012 года Лулулемон подал уведомление о добровольном увольнении в суды штата Делавэр на основании частного мирового соглашения, достигнутого между сторонами, в соответствии с которым иск будет отклонен. Согласно пресс-релизу Lululemon, «Lululemon ценит свои продукты и связанные с ними права интеллектуальной собственности и принимает необходимые меры для защиты своих активов, когда мы видим попытки дублировать наши продукты».

Однако, согласно брендбуку Chevalier Luxury Brand Management, Кляйн «редко участвует в проектировании и разработке продуктов, носящих его имя» и «все виды деятельности передаются лицензиатам по субподряду».

В 2014 году Кляйн подверглась критике за то, что она обозначила Майла Далбесио в своей коллекции «Идеально подходят », что оскорбило многих женщин, поскольку она предназначена для больших размеров.

Смотрите также

  • Секс в рекламе
  • Облигации (одежда)
  • Gap Inc.
  • H&M
  • Zara (розничный торговец)
  • Desigual

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